Threads Logo Threads Logo Facebook Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram Favorite Navigation Search Icon Main Search Icon Close Icon Video Play Icon Indicator Arrow Icon Close Icon Hamburger/Search Icon
How-to

3 Neat Edge Finishes for the Sleeveless Styles of Summer

Jun 21, 2010
Article Image

A self bias facing is the perfect finish for this sleeveless dress made from silk burlap.

Three Edge Finishes

I’ve really become a proponent of the “less is more” school of finishing. Today’s fabrics are so beautiful in and of themselves, a simple edge is all they need. With these techniques you can eliminate the traditional facings on the armhole edges of sleeveless garments and still have beautifully finished results. Here I’ll show you three edge finishes that work beautifully on summer garments: folded bias facing, a baby hem, and scalloped edging. Plus, I’ll show you a great tip for reinforcing buttonholes and buttons.

Folded Bias Facing

Start by cutting a bias strip of fabric that’s slightly shorter than the length of the circumference of the armhole plus a seam allowance at each end. It should be 1 to 1 ½ inches wide plus twice the width of your seam allowance. Sew the strip right sides together at the ends. Fold in half with wrong sides together and press. Sew it to the armhole, right sides together. Trim and grade the seam. Press to the inside and tack in place at the shoulder and side seams by hand or by stitching in the ditch at the seamlines.

how to folded bias facing

There’s no need to sew the facing completely in place, simply tack it to the shoulder and side seams.

Baby Hem

This is a fool-proof way of doing a narrow machine hem. I bless the day that I learned it because it’s useful for so many things.

how to baby hem

To finish an armhole, press in the edge along the seamline and sew close to the fold.

how to baby hem

Trim away the excess fabric close to the stitching line. Appliqué scissors work well for trimming.

how to baby hem

Fold the edge in again and sew in place. When you’re finished, you may see the two rows of stitching on the wrong side, but only one on the right side of your garment.

[[[PAGES]]]

Scalloped Edging

This is a great way to finish the opening and bottom hem edges of a garment, too. I used the decorative scallop stitch on my Bernina. Most machines have a similar stitch. First I sewed and finished the shoulder and side seams.

how to scalloped edging on sleeve

There’s no need to weigh a beautiful airy fabric down with facings and hems when you can take advantage of one of your machine’s decorative stitches.

how to scalloped edging on sleeve

Pin strips of stabilizer to the wrong side of the garment. I used a water soluble stabilizer to keep my top at light as possible. You could use a lightweight tear-away product as well, put some of that will always remain under your stitches.

how to scalloped edging on sleeve

Sew along the armhole seamline using your programmed stitch. Trim away the excess fabric along the outside of the scallops.

how to scalloped edging on sleeve

I trimmed away much of the water-soluble stabilizer before placing it in a water bath to soak away the remaining strips (check manufacturer’s instructions for the correct procedure for the product you’re using).

A Tip for Reinforcing Buttonholes and Buttons

It’s always important to reinforce buttons and buttonholes. Here’s how to do that when you don’t have a traditional facing.

A Tip for Reinforcing Buttonholes and Buttons

Fuse some lightweight interfacing to a strip of fabric and pin it to the wrong side of the garment behind the buttonhole markings.

A Tip for Reinforcing Buttonholes and Buttons

Sew the buttonholes and trim away the interfaced fabric close to the stitching. Reinforce the button side, too, before sewing on the buttons.

Sign up for the Threads Eletter

Get the latest from Threads delivered straight to your inbox.

×
Discuss

Threads Insider

Get instant access to hundreds of videos, tutorials, patterns and more.

Start Your Free Trial

Already an Insider? Log in

Subscribe to Threads today

Save up to 37% and get a free gift

Subscribe

Discuss

  1. ClaudiaLR June 15th

    So that's how you do scalloped edging! Brilliant. Thank you for these tips.

    Claudia

  2. User avater Keep_Learning June 14th

    Waechter's in Asheville, NC went out of business February 2014.
    I haven't found any silk burlap that is garment worthy anywhere. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

  3. User avater gettegorge July 18th

    How great is that ,Were do you get silk Burlap, Love Less is more too.

  4. Hayd July 7th

    Great ideas! Thx for sharing. Love the use of wash away stabilizer and using the scallop stitch to create a finished edge. I will try some of my other "fancy" stitches to create a finished edge.

  5. whippetlover July 3rd

    Great Mag. & great tips, For the lady who was new to sewing, You can lay the bias in place and finger press the 45 degree angles making a crease, join the creases and you have a perfect fit for the facing. I do this for my quilt bindings
    every time and it works.

  6. User avater MerylEss June 26th

    I love the scalloped-edge armhole. I often wonder what to do with the various stitches on my Bernina when it comes to dressmaking. Thanks for the very handy article.

  7. 1336 June 26th

    Great ideal, thanks for the tip

  8. User avater Mahogany_Stylist June 25th

    Excellent tips. Thanks,
    Cennetta

  9. User avater Mahogany_Stylist June 25th

    Excellent tips. Thanks!
    Cennetta

  10. cesca June 24th

    Great tutorials ! I've learned more since accessing this site than I have in 30 years of sewing!

  11. User avater MaryRay June 23rd

    I'm so glad this post has been helpful.
    Let me answer a couple of your questions. First, you don't necessarily have to sew the bias together initially at the ends, you can sew it around the armhole and then connect it. But you should seam the ends and press that seam open, instead of overlappying them, in order to create a smooth line at the underarm.
    Next -- yes if you follow my directions you will be taking in the armhole slightly. It's such a small amount, however, that it probably won't make a difference. But, if you're concerned, make the first fold 1/2 in. from the outer edge. The second turn of fabric should be about 1/8 in. and that gives you the full seam allowance.

  12. User avater bbrockhoff June 23rd

    Great tips, and I love the silk burlap material. Thanks!

  13. User avater januarypaula June 22nd

    I love all three of these ideas, but have two questions. I, too, am wondering about the baby hem: If the first turn of the fabric is on the seam line, won't the second turn make the armhole larger than originally intended? And, what kind of fabric was used in the reinforsed buttonhole demo? At first I thought it was a searsucker, but when looking at the close-ups more carefully I don't think it is. Where was it purchased?

  14. BarbaraHewitt June 22nd

    Wow-How creative. The ideas will be very helpful. I also love the silk burlap. I have used the folded bias facing on children's dresses. Can't wait to try the scalloped edging. Thank you.

  15. rhaazz June 22nd

    Hi, I'm inexperienced. I am not sure I understood the bias strip installation instruction.

    Why do you sew the ends of the bias strip together before pressing it in half lengthwise and sewing it to the garment?

    What if your measurement is off by just a hair and your facing is too small for the armhole? Wouldn't it be easier to cut a bias strip that is probably a little too long, then sew the strip to the armhole, and when you've got the strip sewn right side to right side all the way around the armhole, THEN cut the second end of the bias strip to match the first and sew them together?

  16. tissy June 22nd

    Love everything you presented. This was SOOO timely! I will definitely use all three techniques in addition to the button/buttonhole hint. Thanks.

  17. redandredder June 22nd

    On the baby hem, I agree that it is very fast, but if you notice the first seam is folded on the seamline then stitched at that point. After trimming, the seam is turned in again and stitched. If you turn it the second time, as I see it, the edge finish will be narrower than intended by one seamline.

  18. OPStitcher June 22nd

    Good ideas, well explained, & I can probably do all 3 using my Featherweight & attachments. Thanks.

  19. User avater patiosew June 22nd

    I love these ideas! Great article and I'm sure many of us will use these ideas for a lot of things!!!!

  20. User avater ALY June 22nd

    Great ideas at just the right time as I am currently working on sleeveless tops to wear under jacket for work. I never think to use my machines decorative stiches, so it was nice to see that technique. I also love Waechter's unique fabrics.

  21. KharminJ June 21st

    Dear KathleenSews ~
    Thanks for the nursing pattern sites! These tops or dresses will make a great "New Baby' gift for my daughter! Baby Ginnie was just born last Thursday!

    And since they live in Florida, the light-weigt finishes will be very useful, too ~

    Bright Blessings, all! Kharmin

  22. User avater froglegs1 June 21st

    This is just what I am looking for. I am already useing some of these ideas but you have showen me an even easier way of doing them as well as a new one. Thank you, thank you

  23. User avater MaryRay June 21st

    The silk burlap is wonderful and it absolutely does not itch! It's very soft and drapey. I got it at Waechter's in Asheville, NC http://www.fabricsandbuttons.com. The pattern -- well, that's my adaptation of a tent dress pattern. But, when you use any of these finishing techniques that don't require facing patterns, you can adapt patterns with sleeves as well. Just eliminate the sleeves and cut the armhole so it slants toward the shoulder. Check to make sure the underarm seam is not too low.

  24. KathleenSews June 21st

    Dear Sew Lady, Go to http://www.sewingpatterns.com and type in "maternity" in the search field (no quotes). You'll find a good selection, some that can be downloaded and printed out.

    And after the birth, www.elizabethlee.com has wonderful nursing patterns.

  25. User avater RevDi June 21st

    Dear SewLady - Butterick makes a maternity top pattern, No. B4201, in sizes from 8-24. You can see it at:
    http://butterick.mccall.com/b4201-products-1419.php?page_id=370
    Simplicity has several patterns which can be seen at:
    http://www.simplicity.com/Search.aspx?SearchTerm=maternity
    You can also try eBay for older maternity sewing patterns. Good luck!

  26. User avater Sew Lady June 21st

    I am in the wrong category, but where can I find maternity patterns? I am trying to sew some mternity tops for a short, heavy friend, but can't find suitabl maternity patterns. Have mothers-to-be given up sewing for themselves? Thanks!

  27. jansquires June 21st

    Thank you Threads for bringing Mary's facing tips. I too agree that "Less is More" and love to see the contributors to your magazine willing to offer updates and change.

  28. User avater Piecemaker June 21st

    Thank you for the great ideas on finishing. I love the scallops and can think of a few other stitches on my Bernina that might work, too. The button and buttonhole reinforcements should work well on garments. Once again a big thumbs up (as Siskel & Ebert would say) on your finishes and tips. This is a very worthwhile e-newsletter--as opposed to most I receive.

  29. User avater vasallese June 21st

    Thank you for the tips. I love Threads and the fact that the authors really enjoy sewing and love to pass on their knowledge. Keep up the good work.

  30. ZenZan June 21st

    I really appreciate learning about these techniques. Thanks so much! I'm with you for the school of "less is more".

  31. bjrobins June 21st

    Yes! Where can we get silk burlap and the pattern?

  32. User avater divaweava June 21st

    I love the silk burlap! Does it itch? Can you let us know where you got it?
    The finishes are simple and elegant. Thanks.

  33. Stitichy June 21st

    Thank-you for the great ideas!

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

More From Threads

Threads Insider Exclusives

View All
View All

Highlights

  • Sign up for the Threads Eletter

    Get the latest from Threads delivered straight to your inbox.

  • SewStylish

    SewStylish

    Take a look inside the pages of SewStylish Spring 2017.

  • CraftStylish

    CraftStylish

    Expert craft tutorials, news, and tips for sewing, knitting, crochet, quilting, paper crafts, embroidery, jewelry making, and more!