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Setting a Sleeve By Hand

Threads magazine - 122 – Dec. 2005/Jan. 2006 Issue
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This lesson on sewing a sleeve into a jacket by hand is unquestionably a master class technique. The exquisitely set sleeves we admire in haute couture don’t happen by accident. Control is the key element to their success-control of fit, fabric, and the techniques used to shape the fabric into the desired form. Successfully setting in and sewing a sleeve by hand starts by carefully fitting the sleeve and choosing an appropriate fabric that works well with the technique. This haute couture technique from Susan Khalje enables you to position the horizontal and vertical grainlines perfectly, ensure a full range of motion in your sleeve, and establish a well-placed and elegant armscye seam.  Keep your eye on the grain and take it a stitch at a time.  From Threads #122

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