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Create Dramatic Texture and Detail with Curved Tucks

Threads magazine - 166 - April/May 2013 Issue
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Simple folded bias strips form a stunning and complex surface design that re-creates couture fluting.

Kenneth D. King explains how to create stunning overlapping fabric tucks in this excerpt from “Curved Tucks” seen in Threads #166. This method for achieving the illusion of intricately sculpted tucks depends on one of the simplest elements in sewing: bias-cut fabric strips. This is an elegant detail for everyday garments as well as glamorous special occasion wear. Stitch folded strips in parallel rows This method requires constructing a garment foundation, like an underlining layer, to which the folded bias strips are applied, creating the appearance of skillfully sewn tucks. This gives greater control over the tuck shaping and direction and supports the garment’s shape. In the basic technique, strips are stitched in even, parallel rows (vertical, horizontal, or diagonal). Choose any thin, stable fabric, such as cotton muslin, batiste, or cotton shirting, for the foundation layer. Cut the bias strips for the tucks from fabrics with body, such as silk dupioni, satin, crepe, or broadcloth. Reinforce lightweight fabrics with fusible interfacing. Steps: 1. For the bias strips, multiply the desired finished tuck width by 2, and add 2 inches for seam allowances. For example, for 1-inch-wide finished tucks, cut bias strips 4-inches wide. To cover an entire garment with…

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  1. LeandaM January 8th

    Kenneth King, you have done it again. I am always overwhelmed at how you create such amazing pieces and can show us your techniques, making them easy to understand. You truly are the King of Couture and I want to thank you for inspiring me!

  2. user-1128164 December 11th

    What pattern was used for the base?

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