Handwoven fabrics are spectacular treasures, yielding the most gorgeous garments. However, the very qualities that make these textiles special can also make them challenging to work with.

Handweaver Daryl Lancaster’s primary goal when she sits at the loom is to create cloth for garments. Cloth that comes directly from the loom poses problems when it’s time to sew it. Handwoven cloth may be loosely “sett” (sett refers to a fabric’s density and the number of threads per inch). It is also prone to stretching, and can ravel easily.

Lancaster has discovered lots methods that make the most of his handwoven fabrics when it comes to turning them into garments. Many of the techniques illustrated in this article, from Threads #163, can be used successfully in commercial fabric with similar qualities. Whether you are a weaver creating fabrics, or you simply enjoy sewing with handwoven or loosely woven fabrics, these techniques will help you create beautiful garments that showcase these special materials.