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The Tailored Jacket: How to Make a Surgeon’s Cuff, Part 1

Oct 08, 2014
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Generally, the cuffs found on tailored jackets are decorative, not functional. There is something appealing about having working cuff buttons on a tailored jacket. I’ll show you how to create this practical cuff detail. Here’s a bit of trivia: A cuff with working buttonholes is called a surgeon’s cuff. The Economist (posted December 16, 2010) explains: “Savile Row was inhabited largely by surgeons before the tailors moved in during the 19th century, and their influence can be seen in the ‘surgeon’s cuff.’ On the most expensive suits the cuff buttons, which mirror the pips of military rank, can be undone, allowing the sleeve to be rolled back. This let surgeons attend patients spouting blood without removing their coats-an important distinction that set them apart from shirt-sleeved tradesmen of the lower orders.” Now you know. More tailoring techniques from Kenneth D. King: • How to Make a Tailored Collar • How to Replace a Sleeve Lining • How to Make a Perfect Notched Lapel • Eliminate Buildup in Your Seam Allowances • How to Sew a Catch Stitch The technique begins with the pattern. The height of the vent is “to taste,” depending on the number of buttons you want to…

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  1. user-1151004 February 3rd

    Thank you, Professor King. I learn so much from your posts. I really appreciate the time you dedicate to sharing your knowledge.

  2. user-1151004 February 3rd

    Thank you, Professor King. I learn so much from your posts. I really appreciate the time you dedicate to sharing your knowledge.

  3. User avater KennethDKing November 1st

    Thanks, Leine!

    This lining installs somewhat like the sleeve lining I showed on the morning coat a time back--this is the link to that post:

    http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/29648/how-to-replace-a-sleeve-lining

  4. Leine October 30th

    Thank you, Kenneth, as always, such a clearly written and carefully illustrated tutorial about an interesting detail that helps us all kick our sewing up a notch. Great story about Savile Row, as well! Looking forward to your technique on managing the tricky part of attaching the lining.

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