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How-to

Video: How to Sew a Welt Pocket Opening

Feb 13, 2015

Evamarie Gomez and Judith Neukam; Shot by: Gary Junken

It’s a scary proposition to cut a welt pocket opening through an almost-finished garment. Instead, try adding a welt pocket on a patch pocket. Watch this Threads Essential Techniques video tutorial to learn an easy, expert way to cut the welt opening without cutting through your garment. 

Follow this link to watch all of the fabulous techniques featured in this video series.  

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  1. User avater KJRasmussen February 23rd

    This is such a clear, helpful tutorial. Is there a reason one wouldn't sew the lining all the way around, open the welt and do the turning through that opening?

  2. CarolFresia March 10th

    Thanks so much for your question, Marysia. Judith is on a well-deserved vacation, so in her absence I’m happy to address your query.

    The welts shown in this video, from Simplicity’s Threads 1168 pattern, are cut on the lengthwise grain. But you can cut a welt on any grain you like: Men’s suit jackets typically have them cut on the cross-grain, so that stripes or plaids can be matched to the jacket front above and below the pocket. A bias welt in a patterned fabric obviates the need to match the pattern, while providing a pretty design detail.

    If you do choose to cut the welts on the bias, you don’t have to stretch and press. Instead, rely on a good, stable fusible interfacing to support the welt fabric and to eliminate stretching and gaping on a bias-cut welt. You could stretch and press the welts before pocket construction, in order to reduce the amount of stretching or distortion that may occur during wear. However, if you do so, you’ll change the size and shape of the welt (they’ll be longer and narrower), so you will need to experiment with cutting them wider than desired, stretch-pressing, and then recutting to size.

    Carol Fresia

  3. User avater user-4500868 March 2nd

    You never did answer the smocke ladies question

  4. ldl2 February 23rd

    My husband and I wear pullover sweatshirts. There is no pocket for cell phone or glasses like there is on a shirt, so I use the welt pocket technique to add a chest pocket to our sweatshirts.

  5. smockerlady February 20th

    I agree with everyone,a brilliant tutorial.
    May I ask though, do you cut your welts on the straight grain or bias?? I ask this as I get confused as I have read some books which say on the bias and then stretch press before using, others say cut on the straight grain.
    Judith, I know you will confirm which is the best way to achieve the correct finish.

    Regards,
    Marysia.

  6. mjz February 18th

    Judith does it again! Wonderful tutorial, clear as can be.

  7. JENND February 18th

    Thank you!!!!!! One of the best welt pocket tutorial I've seen. After viewing this video, all of my fears are gone away!!!!! I'm a true fan of welt pockets and now I'll be able to apply to many of my garments as an addeded feature. Thanks again!!!!

  8. StashaNovak February 17th

    Thank you so much and just in time. I so agree with Grandma2six above when she wrote:

    "Judith does an excellent job explaining and demonstrating the process."

  9. User avater Grandma2six February 17th

    This was a great video for sewing a welt. Judith does an excellent job explaining and demonstrating the process. I wish this type of tutorial had been available when I was sewing for my career wardrobes back in 70's and 80's. My wardrobe these days consists of more casual pieces, but if I ever construct a garment in the future that has welt pockets, I'll be able to stitch them without fear or hesitation! Thanks for the great video.

  10. russellgibson February 17th

    Now that is just perfect. Thank you once again for some great sewing tips.

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