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The Hybrid Lapel Facing

Mar 21, 2016
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I purchased this Yves Saint Laurent jacket recently and, when inspecting it, found a really nice detail. 

This Yves Saint Laurent jacket is deceptively simple, but it was constructed with a sophisticated trick. I purchased this jacket recently and discovered it has a really nice detail.  I call this trick a hybrid lapel facing: The upper half of the lapel facing, above the break is a separate piece, while the lower half of the lapel, below the break, is a cut-on facing. The interior view reveals the horizontal seam that cuts across the facing. This close-up shows the portion of the facing at the break. You see a nearly right-angled seam where the seam pivots from the lapel edge, across the facing. For clarity, this break is marked X. This hybrid lapel facing method works for both shawl and notch lapels. My example below will show a shawl lapel. Why would you want to draft and make a lapel facing this way? I was taught to eliminate seams whenever possible, and this is a case where I should apply that lesson. We need the seam around the collar portion of the lapel, but not below the break. Having a fold below the break eliminates the seam, reducing the thickness of the front edge of the jacket. Eliminating thickness…

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  1. AndreaLa March 29th

    This will be so great on a plaid, which is my next project. Thank you for the perfect timing!

  2. user-1112581 March 29th

    Well-illustrated, I didn't understand until I saw you cutting the pattern tissue!

  3. User avater KennethDKing March 23rd

    Glad you enjoy the post!

  4. aussiesewinglady March 23rd

    A great method when using a contrasting fabric for the lapel. Would also make sewing buttonholes easier on a thicker fabric. Thank you - can't wait to try in on my next jacket.

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