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Guided Photo Tour: The Red Alpaca Loden Coat

Dec 23, 2016
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I have a fondness for Tyrolean clothing, especially loden coats.

I have a fondness for Tyrolean clothing, and when I came upon this coat at a thrift store recently, I knew I had to take a look inside. For more about loden coats, see my previous posts here and here

loden coat

Sadly, I had to leave this beauty behind because it was too small for me.

silhouette

This classic silhouette features a back pleat and flanges at the shoulders.

sleeve

A sleeve with an overarm seam holds the cuff latch.

alpaca

This coat is woven from alpaca, so it was expensive when new.

fly-front facing

The first thing we see inside is a really beautiful way to finish a fly-front facing. This opening is essentially a very long bound buttonhole.

inside finishing

To reduce bulk, the inside finish of this facing uses the same thin fabric as the binding fabric.

deep facing

Looking further inside the coat, we see that it features a deep facing as well as a zip-out lining on the lower half.

lining

When the lining is unzipped, we can see beautifully bound seam finishes and interior pockets.

flange

Most noteworthy is the flange at the shoulder.

Note the two rows of stitching one is decorative, the other holds the sleeve cap in place. The flange is a faced edge all around the armhole.

sleeve cap

The sleeve is connected to the body at the cap,along the stitching line closer to the edge of the flange, but the underarm is open.

Connecting just the upper half of the sleeve armhole to the body gives the sleeve more mobility and lift.

underarm

A closer look shows that the underarm of the sleeve is bound with the lining fabric, and the underarm of the body is faced.

facing

The flange is finished all around with a facing.  The the sleeve cap is sewn to the body, first by hand and then by one row of topstitching.

This looks like a decorative topstitch from outside, but functions to hang the sleeve.

Share Your Thoughts

What did you think of this coat? Have you ever sewn a coat using these methods, or picked up any similar thrift store finds?

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  1. User avater merrivet March 29th

    Did the thrift store let you take it apart to show us?

  2. User avater ELewis28 January 14th

    Amazing. I so appreciate seeing this. Thanks so much for the detailed analysis. This article will be a great reference.
    P.S., that's an impressive find for a thrift shop. Good eye!

  3. User avater KennethDKing January 11th

    I'm glad you all are enjoying this. A good use of the smart phone.

    I'm working on another vintage coat right now, trying to dissect the interesting pocket.

  4. sanjay7 January 8th

    Looks awesome. Specially for its back side, Solder fitting also looks comfortable.

  5. user-1117178 January 5th

    Thank yo so much for taking the time to photograph and explain all the interesting and amazing details in this coat!

  6. User avater user-5303407 January 4th

    Thank you for the post and wonderful pictures. I love loden coats and am in "awe" of the sewing methods. Fantastic!

  7. user-5461754 January 3rd

    Hello I am always surprised at myself how much I know. i did sew that kind of sleeve cap and also the hidden button closure. I had to do that during evening classes for coupeuse(tailor?) in the Netherlands. I love to do those tricky sewing methods

  8. kristeni January 3rd

    Wow, thank you for the walkthrough. Beautifully made and features to aspire to create. I've never seen a sleeve like that. Very interesting.

  9. kenniswong January 3rd

    What a wonderful find. We don't use these beautiful and functional features in our sewing nearly enough.

  10. User avater KennethDKing December 29th

    Thanks--I am a convert to the smart phone, precisely so I can document items just like this!

  11. just jane December 24th

    A beautifully made coat, s level to aspire to.
    Thank You for sharing and the up-close photos of featured areas.

  12. User avater user-6604521 December 24th

    What a fabulous coat. I love alpaca and have been hoarding a 3-yard piece since a trip to Perú in 2011 where we visited an alpaca processing facility. The operations started with the delivery of raw sheared fibers and ended with the machine spinning into finer and finer threads For weaving mills. This post has inspired me to get my coat made as soon as possible!

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