Facebook Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram Tiktok Icon YouTube Icon Headphones Icon Favorite Navigation Search Icon Forum Search Icon Main Search Icon Close Icon Video Play Icon Indicator Arrow Icon Close Icon Hamburger/Search Icon Plus Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon
Insider

Sign in or become an insider to access this story

Sign In

The Pickstitched Lapped Zipper

Threads #185, June/July 2016

Pickstitched zippers often are installed with a centered application. In this hand-stitched method, the folded fabric edges abut over the zipper teeth. The only downside to this technique is that the zipper may be visible if there’s any strain on the fabric. To a degree, that’s unavoidable with a centered zipper. There is a pickstitched version that covers the zipper entirely, however.

With a lapped application, the zipper is offset from the opening edge, so that it’s out of sight, and it’s covered by an overlap of the fashion fabric. Lapped zippers make sense on a garment’s side, with the fold of the fabric oriented toward the back. They go beautifully into a traditional waistband, and they’re pretty at the back of a dress or top as well.

Before you choose this application, be sure that your fabric folds nicely and can lie reasonably flat. It’s not an ideal application for thick, lofty, or springy fabrics. If the fashion fabric is on the bias or off grain at all, consider an on-grain strip of underlining to stabilize the fabric fold. That way, the overlap won’t ever stretch out of shape.


Into a dress side seam or a waistband

For these uses, I include generous 3⁄4-inch-wide or 1-inch-wide seam allowances. You’re going to be manipulating the seam allowances, and extra fabric makes the job easier. Be sure the machine stitching at the top and base of the zipper opening is secure. Hand-baste the stitching lines. They are a critical component, so they must be clearly and accurately marked.

Dress with sleeves

1 Fold under the underlap (on the zipper side attached to the back of the garment) about 1⁄4 inch from the seamline, toward the fabric’s raw edge. Be sure the fold extends…

Start your 14-day FREE trial to access this story.

Start your FREE trial today and get instant access to this article plus access to all Threads Insider content.

Start Your Free Trial
Discuss

Threads Insider

Get instant access to hundreds of videos, tutorials, projects, and more.

Start Your Free Trial

Already an Insider? Log in

Log in or become a member to post a comment.

More From Threads

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |

Threads Insider Exclusives

View All
View All

Highlights

Shop the Store

View All
View More