This dress started as a love affair with a piece of silk organza. It was pale grey orchid with silver embroidery and sequins. I thought it was the most beautiful piece of fabric I had every seen. My whole dress was designed to show it off to advantage. The gown is a 1906 ballgown. I created the design after lots of research in my collection of period magazines, and drafting systems. The skirt is nearly ¾ of a circle in diameter, cut with a sweeping demi train for elegance on the ballroom floor. It was fitted over a replica of my great aunt’s corset- for the appropriate S-shape that was popular in this time frame. The skirt is china silk over an interlining of kona cotton, and has a false hem of pale grey drill to give strength and flare to the skirt bottom, and to keep it from wearing on the dance floor. The overskirt is the organza which is finished with 3 rows of ruffles, two of them only extending to the side back of the skirt and tapering to the sides, while the third ruffle goes all the way around and covers the top of these ruffles. The bodice was drafted to my corseted measurement, features a plunging and well fitted neckline so that I could dance in comfort, and off the shoulder puff sleeves. The silk lining over cotton twill is darted and fitted, and the orchid silk charmuse cumberbund, and pigeon fronted organza gives the correct line for the time frame. The gown was finished off with a silver embroidered medallion center front with dangling orchid beads, and the neckline has a double row of orchid beads around it, peaking down at center front and at the side of the sleeves. Straps of ribbon beaded with orchid beads keep the gown in place, and it is closed up the back with hooks and eyes. To finish the look of my dress my cousin designed a special royal looking necklace, and I made an aigrette of ostrich plumes and glass beads to wear in my pompadour hairstyle. When these photos were taken I had removed my white silk gloves after coming home from the ball.  I believe this is one of my best efforts on a ballgown and think it deserves to be a prize winning dress for its accuracy to historical standards and perfect fit.

 

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