Add Style with Graphic Fabric Insertions

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Threads Magazine, editor

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Dramatic insertions replace darts and, in some cases vertical seams in this all-bias, 4-ply dress.

Jack Deutsch

Machine-sew the insertion into the garment.

Carol Fresia

A few artfully placed insertions turn a basic linen caimsole into a couture top-without disrupting the flow of the lightweight fabric.

Scott Phillips

Dramatic insertions replace darts and, in some cases vertical seams in this all-bias, 4-ply dress.

Photo: Jack Deutsch

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Prepare fabric and patterns for perfect insertion placement
Begin with a garment pattern that features large, open areas. Draw your insertion shape on pattern paper, and add match points around its edge if needed (smaller insertions may not need match points). In these demonstration photos, the author uses a partial pattern for easy visibility; when working with an actual garment, always use a full pattern and a single-layer layout.

Transfer motifs to the garment pattern.
Position the insertion pattern (here with a thick outline) over the garment pattern, hold or pin it in place, and trace its seamline and match points with a tracing wheel and dressmaker’s carbon, marking the grainline if necessary for reference. 

Refine the pattern lines.
Remove the insertion pattern, and refine the design lines by tracing over them, using a French curve as a guide.

Trace patterns and motifs onto the fabrics.
Lay out the background fabric, right side up, over a large sheet of white dressmaker’s carbon (available from greenberg-hammer.com). Secure the pattern to the fabric with pins or weights, and trace the motif seamlines, match points, and cutting lines with the tracing wheel. Repeat with the insertion fabric, aligning the pattern and fabric grainlines precisely as for the background.

Thread-trace all of the markings.
Remove the paper patterns and turn the fabric wrong side up. Cut out the garment pieces, but don’t cut the insertion shapes out of the background pieces. Cut out the insertion pieces, leaving a wide margin outside the seam allowances to prevent distortion. With fine silk thread, thread-trace the motif stitching lines and match points on both the garment panel and the insertions.

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Comments (9)

Luxiraj writes: Thanks a ton for this. I made a kameez with neckline detail using this and it turned out pretty good.
Posted: 9:12 am on February 10th

fashion_conscious writes: Keep up the good work. Ideas like these are just great. I've utilised ideas like these before and go raving revues.
Posted: 5:46 am on February 6th

Maillady writes: When I first considered the concept of "insertion," and knowing how the corners are hard to make lie down flat, I was skeptical; but after reading the brief article and the way the "insertion" was described, it sounds like a great fashion option, and one I will put under my hat for future design use. Thanks for all the great ideas!
Posted: 8:00 pm on February 5th

dolcam writes: Love the insertions. Can't wait to try it myself. The dress just seems to flow beautifully. Thank you for the wonderful inspiration.
Posted: 8:49 pm on February 3rd

Creative60 writes: I have enjoyed the many articles on sewing techniques.
Posted: 3:32 am on February 3rd

pmvint writes: Great article! Can't wait to try it. Thanks for the photos and concise directions.
Posted: 7:13 pm on February 2nd

SabrinaStyle writes: This looks great -- like it's part of the garment fabric, and it's so well done.These instructions are really clear and the photos are truly helpful.

I wonder if Pamela Ptak has written any books?

Thanks so much for posting this article!
Posted: 12:00 pm on February 2nd

BarbaraSki writes: Wonderful article and very inspiring - I'm pondering my pattern & fabric "resource center" for the right combo to use this technique. Too bad Pam didn't have sufficient time to show off her excellent skills. I think she was "awfed" way to early.
Posted: 11:43 am on February 2nd

meorens writes: Thanks for sharing this great article by Pamela Ptak. She is a wealth of talent and expertise, and I hope you print more from her.
Posted: 11:35 pm on February 1st

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