Add Style with Graphic Fabric Insertions

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Threads Magazine, editor

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Dramatic insertions replace darts and, in some cases vertical seams in this all-bias, 4-ply dress.

Jack Deutsch

Machine-sew the insertion into the garment.

Carol Fresia

A few artfully placed insertions turn a basic linen caimsole into a couture top-without disrupting the flow of the lightweight fabric.

Scott Phillips

Dramatic insertions replace darts and, in some cases vertical seams in this all-bias, 4-ply dress.

Photo: Jack Deutsch

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Clip and press for a beautiful finish
These final touches yield a smooth, flat insertion.

Press and trim the seam allowances.
On the wrong side of the garment, press the seam allowances open. If the motif includes points or corners, clip-notch into the inner seam allowance about 1⁄4 inch from the point; press the seam allowances as shown. This will ensure that the points and corners lie flat. Trim the seam allowances to 1⁄4 to 3⁄8 inch, and clip any curves.

Hand-finish the seam allowances.
Finish all raw edges with tiny hand overcasting. Where the seam allowances have been pressed together at corners, overcast them together as well. Then press the insertion from the garment’s right side, using a press cloth.

A few artfully placed insertions turn a basic linen camisole into a couture top—without disrupting the flow of the lightweight fabric.

Couturiers are taught, not born
The author (front row, in teal) learned the couture insertion technique at Maison Sapho School of Dressmaking and Design in New York City. Miss Alice (front row, second from the right), the owner of and instructor at the school, taught a full array of specialized draping and couture hand-sewing techniques, and insisted that having these in sample books would almost guarantee her students jobs in designer workrooms. Techniques like couture insertions aren’t usually taught at fashion design schools because the added hand-sewing they require makes them impractical for the mass production of industry sewing. However, this insertion technique continues to be used in haute couture.

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Comments (9)

Luxiraj writes: Thanks a ton for this. I made a kameez with neckline detail using this and it turned out pretty good.
Posted: 9:12 am on February 10th

fashion_conscious writes: Keep up the good work. Ideas like these are just great. I've utilised ideas like these before and go raving revues.
Posted: 5:46 am on February 6th

Maillady writes: When I first considered the concept of "insertion," and knowing how the corners are hard to make lie down flat, I was skeptical; but after reading the brief article and the way the "insertion" was described, it sounds like a great fashion option, and one I will put under my hat for future design use. Thanks for all the great ideas!
Posted: 8:00 pm on February 5th

dolcam writes: Love the insertions. Can't wait to try it myself. The dress just seems to flow beautifully. Thank you for the wonderful inspiration.
Posted: 8:49 pm on February 3rd

Creative60 writes: I have enjoyed the many articles on sewing techniques.
Posted: 3:32 am on February 3rd

pmvint writes: Great article! Can't wait to try it. Thanks for the photos and concise directions.
Posted: 7:13 pm on February 2nd

SabrinaStyle writes: This looks great -- like it's part of the garment fabric, and it's so well done.These instructions are really clear and the photos are truly helpful.

I wonder if Pamela Ptak has written any books?

Thanks so much for posting this article!
Posted: 12:00 pm on February 2nd

BarbaraSki writes: Wonderful article and very inspiring - I'm pondering my pattern & fabric "resource center" for the right combo to use this technique. Too bad Pam didn't have sufficient time to show off her excellent skills. I think she was "awfed" way to early.
Posted: 11:43 am on February 2nd

meorens writes: Thanks for sharing this great article by Pamela Ptak. She is a wealth of talent and expertise, and I hope you print more from her.
Posted: 11:35 pm on February 1st

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