Raw-Edge Bias Binding

comments (17) February 26th, 2010 in sewing, garment construction, tips & tricks, fabric

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LOUISE CUTTING, contributor

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Photo: Louise Cutting

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Raw bias bindings can be used instead of facings or regular fold-over bias bindings to finish a garment. I have found that this technique is a wonderful edge finish for dimensional hand woven fabrics or boucles. Many times, these fabrics have a bulky appearance when faced with a self-fabric and trying to stitch a conventional bias binding tends to give a ‘home made’ appearance.

These photos show raw bias edges on linen applied in a self-fabric. I have also used hand-dyed bias silk ribbon as an edge, silk taffeta cut on the bias, and bias china silk.

1. Cut the bias strips 1 1/2” wide. It will be cut again with a rotary cutter after it is stitched, but starting out with 1 1/2” is easy to work with when creating the edging. One piece of bias is placed on the wrong side of the garment edge and the other bias is placed on the right side. The right sides of the bias are placed toward the garment. All raw edges match along the outside edge. Unless is an important part of the garment, I don’t remove the seam allowances around the outside of the garment.

2. Pin the raw edges in place with the pin taking a ‘pick’ at what will be the stitching line.

3. Stitch a presser foot away from the raw edge or about 3/8”.

4. Press the bias binding away from the garment on both the right side and the wrong side of the garment.

5. Stitch the inside and outside bindings together along the garment edge of the garment or 3/8” away from the original stitching line and now the pressed seam.

6. Using a ruler and rotary cutter, cut the raw edges again so the edges are even. I have found the width of the stitching line to the original fold should be about the same distance as the stitching line to the new rotary cut edge.

7. Placing the ruler so just the edge is shows, a stiff toothbrush or chenille brush can be used to ‘fluff’ along the edge of the raw bias. Having the ruler in place with only the raw edge exposed protects the bias fabric and garment from getting a rough treatment from the brush.

8. Here the raw bias binding is placed on a jacket cuff. The bias doesn’t have to be sewn in a circle first with this method. The raw short end can also be raw.

9. Shown are the hem corner and the vertical front. The hem was ‘worked’ first from steps 1 through step 6. Then the vertical front was pinned, sewn, pressed, stitched and cut with a rotary cutter. The brushing of the entire outside edge of the garment was done after all the raw bias binding edges were completed.

On my gallery page you will find step by step for the raw-edge finish I did on a hand woven garment I designed for the Hand Weavers Guild Designer Fashion show challange in 2008.

posted in: sewing, garment construction, tips & tricks, fabric, sewing machine, garment, seam, edge, hem, cutting, cuff, collar, trimming, new forms of bias binding

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Comments (17)

SewLambitious writes: FOR PRINTING OPTIONS:
I downloaded the Primo PDF to my computer {www.primopdf.com}. When I click on print, I have the option to click on my default printer, or click on Primo PDF to save it as a PDF to my documents. I usually save it as a PDF first (stored to my computer to retrieve years later) and then print it out for my binder. If there is no print option on the article, just use Ctrl P to force the print option. Hope this helps several of you!

Also, there is a website/program called Print Friendly {www.printfriendly.com} You can copy a URL and paste it into the box on that site. THEN, you have the option to click on sections to delete (such as ads or long intros to articles).
Posted: 2:21 pm on March 26th

SAgirl writes: I have just finished a linen shirt and this would have been ideal.I will use it next time. Thank you for this wonderful idea.
Posted: 1:33 am on March 30th

Faulkner writes: This is exactly what I was looking for on my current project. However, I don't understand why the seam allowance is not removed or at least reduced. Surely, this finished edge is going to be 1 1/4" to 1 3/8" beyond what the edge would be with a regular facing sewn on. I was away on holiday when this article first came out. Hopefully somebody else is reading it late and can help me out.
Posted: 10:39 am on March 12th

jgflo writes: I am dissapointed, I have tried to print this article 5 times and I have only 5 first pages. What is the problem?
Posted: 7:24 pm on March 3rd

kiti63 writes: Oh, I see now, there are two pieces of binding! I get it now, duh! Silly me.
Posted: 12:36 pm on March 3rd

sjnichols writes: Thank you Threads for another great idea. Love the garment embellishing ideas you always have, both modern and from past designers. I always get compliments when the ideas came from you! Can't wait to use this one!
Posted: 12:16 pm on March 3rd

kiti63 writes: Beautiful, but I'm confused about the measurements. In my head, I would start with a bias strip 1 1/2" wide, line up the raw edges and sew it to the good side at 3/4". Then after pressing away from the garment, you sew again at 3/8", centred between the first stitch line and the edge. There would be nothing left to trim, and three layers to brush. Does that make sense?

This is coming at a perfect time as I'm prepped to make a Chanel type boucle jacket for spring!
Posted: 12:15 am on March 3rd

sputnik writes: Love this idea, I'm working my brain overtime for how I plan to use this technique. I love the look of it.
TO AURALEE:
This is in answer to auralee regarding saving articles. While on the page you want to save click "file" (upper left-hand side of the menu toolbar. Click on "saveas", this brings up a dialogue box. In the box click on "documents or on some computers it may say "my documents". You will notice that in the save box at the bottom it will either have the web page name or the name of the article (you can hightlight this box and name it whatever you want - I use the article title for quick retrieval). click save and viola! you have it. This will save the webpage and all subsequent pages for those articles that have multiple pages of instructions. And, as Kenots write you can create a "new folder" called sewing in the documents folder and when you open your documents folder you can scroll down and click on the sewing folder and store all of your saved articles in this one folder.
Posted: 7:52 pm on March 2nd

Kenots writes: To Auralee,
You can save the information in any article to your computer if you just open a blank word document while you have the information open in another window. With your left button held down, highlight all the information you want (including pictures), right click with your cursor somewhere in the printed area, left click on copy, click on your open blank document, and right click, then left click on paste. This method will paste all of your highlighted information to your word document.
It really isn't difficult to do and you can edit out any information you don't want or you can add your own comments, then Save it to a name of your choice on your hard drive. Be sure to save it or all of your work is gone. This enables you to have it on hand and it can be edited and printed if you should want to do so at some point. I have a file folder on my hard drive named Sewing that I saved all sewing files to. Once you get the hang of it, you'll find it only takes a few minutes to do. Hope this helps!
Posted: 7:09 pm on March 2nd

Auralee writes: Hi! n This looks like a wonderful technique to try. I would like to save it to my computer rather than printbut couldn't find that option.

Also, I have purchased the Threads CD and must say it is amazing to see how the magazine has evolved. Threads has been one of my favorite magazines for many years. Oralee
Posted: 4:15 pm on March 2nd

Paws2 writes: Thank you for another terrific idea!! The new techniques always seem to come just when I'm looking for a different way to finish a garment or home decor project. This is one method I will be using on some light weight shirts right away!...thanks again...Paws 2
Posted: 9:59 am on March 2nd

ladysewsew writes: This looks like a fun technique. I will plan to try it on a future project. Thank you for such simple yet detailed instructions.
Posted: 9:08 am on March 2nd

dottie123 writes: I agree...this is really lovely and easy to do. Thanks!!!
Posted: 6:43 am on March 2nd

Wanttimetosew writes: This is so cool! I am dying to try this technique on a boiled wool jacket using a contrast colored linen. Let me at my sewing room!
Posted: 7:57 pm on March 1st

woodruff writes: I like this! I mean, I really like this! How pretty.
Posted: 7:12 pm on March 1st