Last summer I fulfilled a long-term wish to take a trip to the fabric district of Paris.  Amidst the wonderful array of faric, I found a beautiful lavender and green reversible silk Damask, and an embroidered silk chiffon fabric that went together beautifully.  I knew in an instant that I wanted to make a skirt and jacket, however I struggled trying to decide which side of the Damask to use.  I thought about making a jacket with a contrasting lapel, but finally resolved to take on a personal challange and make an unlined, reversible jacket.

Because the fabic had a formal flare, I wanted to make a fitted, princess-cut jacket with set-in sleaves.  This presented a complex problem; to find a way of finishing and enclosing the seams.  I was very fortunate to run across an Offray green, satin saddle ribbon in the exact color of green.  I used the ribbon to cover the seams and finish the edges on the lavander side of the jacket.  The ribbon also provided a nice detail and accent.  I used a shanked button I had also found in Paris, to make a Chanel-type button.  Through trial and error, I made a double hook and eye closure which allows the button to be removed and used for both jacket versions.  I was inspired by the Master Class article by Patricia Keay -“Bias-tube filigree”- to make a pin-on rose with leaves, to embellish the other side of the jacket.

For the skirt, I made a pattern using one of my favorite purchased eight gore skirts.  I sewed french seams on the outside, then hand-stitched the ribbon to cover the seams.  This technique provided a method to have no exposed seam on the skirt or jacket. The ribbon also neatly hid the skirts side zipper, and also functioned as a band for the waist.  I did not like the look of a rolled hem on the skirt, but had no luck finding hem facing that would match.  I did find a lovely lace that added a surprise embellshment to the underside of the chiffon, and I used the ribbon to hem-face the double lining of the skirt.

Using my meager remnants of chiffon, I was able to make a princess-cut shell front, lined and backed with licra.  This not only saved me because I was out of fabric, but also allowed me to have a fitted top that did not require a side zipper or buttons in the back.  The top was also an inspiration taken from a beautiful lace shell I had purchased during my trip to Paris.

Launch Gallery