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Three-piece green silk ensemble with 3/4 length sleeve reversible Damask jacket.

French-seams were covered and edges finished with Offray-Green Satin Saddle ribbon.

Reverse side of jacket embellished with chiffon pin-on rose.

A shanked button and fabric-covered plastic ring are used to make a Chanel-type button.

Patricia Keay-"Master Class" sculptured leaves are added to the silk chiffon rose pin.

All that was left were scraps of chiffon, only enough to make a princess cut front, lined and backed with lycra, to make a fitted shell with pull-over ease.

Three-piece green silk ensemble with 3/4 length sleeve reversible Damask jacket.

Last summer I fulfilled a long-term wish to take a trip to the fabric district of Paris.  Amidst the wonderful array of faric, I found a beautiful lavender and green reversible silk Damask, and an embroidered silk chiffon fabric that went together beautifully.  I knew in an instant that I wanted to make a skirt and jacket, however I struggled trying to decide which side of the Damask to use.  I thought about making a jacket with a contrasting lapel, but finally resolved to take on a personal challange and make an unlined, reversible jacket.

Because the fabic had a formal flare, I wanted to make a fitted, princess-cut jacket with set-in sleaves.  This presented a complex problem; to find a way of finishing and enclosing the seams.  I was very fortunate to run across an Offray green, satin saddle ribbon in the exact color of green.  I used the ribbon to cover the seams and finish the edges on the lavander side of the jacket.  The ribbon also provided a nice detail and accent.  I used a shanked button I had also found in Paris, to make a Chanel-type button.  Through trial and error, I made a double hook and eye closure which allows the button to be removed and used for both jacket versions.  I was inspired by the Master Class article by Patricia Keay -"Bias-tube filigree"- to make a pin-on rose with leaves, to embellish the other side of the jacket.

For the skirt, I made a pattern using one of my favorite purchased eight gore skirts.  I sewed french seams on the outside, then hand-stitched the ribbon to cover the seams.  This technique provided a method to have no exposed seam on the skirt or jacket. The ribbon also neatly hid the skirts side zipper, and also functioned as a band for the waist.  I did not like the look of a rolled hem on the skirt, but had no luck finding hem facing that would match.  I did find a lovely lace that added a surprise embellshment to the underside of the chiffon, and I used the ribbon to hem-face the double lining of the skirt.

Using my meager remnants of chiffon, I was able to make a princess-cut shell front, lined and backed with licra.  This not only saved me because I was out of fabric, but also allowed me to have a fitted top that did not require a side zipper or buttons in the back.  The top was also an inspiration taken from a beautiful lace shell I had purchased during my trip to Paris.

becauseiliketo, member
Posted on Jun 2nd, 2010 in design, garment construction, fabric, embellishments, reader's closet

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Comments (6)

Sewista writes: Exquisite! Your mastery of the various techniques required is obvious. Stunning.
Posted: 8:39 am on March 10th

trishapat writes: Beautiful! It's already been said but it's the immediate response I was getting as I looked closely at your pictures. And ... there I was, happily reading along ... and suddenly my own name was there ... I am delighted to read that my bias tube embellishment article was helpful to you in planting an idea. You obviously took it and used it to create your own lovely version.
I appreciated reading the story and how you solved little "problems" as they arose. Thanks for posting the story and the pictures. Great job!
Posted: 3:59 pm on September 28th

FelicityH writes: I love the idea of backing the shell in lycra to save fabric. Thrifty, comfortable and looks great.
Posted: 4:52 pm on August 17th

jlynn writes: Thank you for posting. Your outfit is beautiful. Worth all the work you put into it. It really shows.
Posted: 10:24 pm on June 26th

Kate_W writes: Beautiful. I imagine wearing this is just plain fun, comfortable, and classy ... plus great memories -- planning and execution. Kewl.
Posted: 10:21 pm on June 7th

briarose writes: This is absolutely beautiful! I have re-read your 'story' twice as I am intrigued by your talent & foresight. This must have been a labour of love; taking many hours with the hand stitching,planning & execution. What a joy it is to see such a gorgeous outfit & I hope you have many great places to wear it.
Posted: 8:36 pm on June 3rd

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