A New Improved Seam Roll
comments (54) May 16th, 2011 in sewing, tips & tricks, tools & supplies, how-toAnyone who has taken a class with me knows I like pressing seams over a seam roll. I've always been dissatisfied with the ones on the market--since they are filled with packed sawdust, they flatten out over time, in my experience.
I've taken to using hardwood railing dowel to make my seam rolls--it's rigid, won't compress over time, and can be made to any length.
However, there's one problem that both purchased seam rolls, or the dowels have--they roll off the pressing table. This generally occurs at the time you need them most, and they tend to roll into an inconvenient place (also, in my experience).
Recently, I was at a lumber yard with a friend who was renovating her apartment and was shopping for crown molding. As we were standing in front of the rack with all the molding samples, I spied a length of oak railing. Inspiration hit--and I snatched that piece, insisting she needed samples of railing as well.
This photo is the end of the railing--you can see the profile, and relative size. Railing is made in softwood and hardwood--you want the hardwood railing, for durability and performance. The profile will vary slightly from lumberyard to lumberyard, but you want the curved shape at the top.
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The feature I love most about the railing--THE BOTTOM IS FLAT! This means it will sit squarely on the pressing table instead of rolling off. |
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Comments (54)
Posted: 8:27 am on May 28th
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Posted: 8:18 pm on May 21st
Posted: 4:06 am on May 21st
thanks again.
Posted: 12:45 pm on May 20th
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Posted: 12:51 am on May 19th
By using the doubled Seam Allowance area I have a 'stop' that keeps it from rolling.
I also have a much bigger tube; came with fabric wound around it, covered in the same way; use this one to press flatter seams/straighter seams. It is also longer than the narrow one, which is 18" or so.
Liz P.
Posted: 9:10 pm on May 18th
But as for the seam roll, I like the hard surface, to get a flat seam without running the risk of embossing the seam allowances into the fabric surrounding the seam. I did some experimentation when I first learned of a seam roll. I was not a fan of the sawdust-filled one as it flattened out, and when I was using railing dowel I arrived at this preference for no padding, which, is just that--a preference--not carved on stone.
I'm glad you all are enjoying this post. We felt you might like a break from the opus fantasy fur jacket!
Posted: 7:46 pm on May 18th
As for questions about covers and padding: As I said earlier, I prefer no padding and just a cover, but pad with whatever you like, as long as it is a natural fiber. Wool woks as well as cotton.
And the comment about hardwood railing is very good--I use hardwood, because it won't flatten out, but didn't know that with steam, that the pitch will bleed from pine or other softwoods. But it makes sense.
Posted: 7:39 pm on May 18th
Other items can be pressed by using a rolled up towel -- for us amateurs saves storage and clutter!!!!
Posted: 3:53 pm on May 18th
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Posted: 7:55 am on May 18th
Thank you Kenneth
Posted: 7:53 am on May 18th
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Posted: 7:08 am on May 18th
Posted: 7:01 am on May 18th
As for the question of how much padding--none. I prefer it very hard as opposed to with padding, as one gets a really flat seam that way. As to the padding for the ironing board that has the reflective surface....also no.
The purpose of these tools in addition to being a pressing surface, is to draw the heat and moisture through and away from the fabric, for a good press. The coverings with a reflective surface work counter to that, and don't give the same results. If you want to cover it with a bit of padding, one layer of cotton flannelette underneath the muslin will be just the ticket--natural fibers will do the same as the wood, because they, too are cellulose, as is the wood.
Posted: 6:37 am on May 18th
Posted: 5:56 am on May 18th
www.cynsew.com
Posted: 5:10 am on May 18th
www.cynsew.com
Posted: 4:56 am on May 18th
Thanks for this tip! Wow!
Posted: 4:34 am on May 18th
Posted: 2:30 am on May 18th
Posted: 1:58 am on May 18th
Somehow I deleted my first comment - - oops!!
There are curved sections for stair hand railings in a multiple range of configurations of degrees of curves and angles.
Check out your DIY shops for one that suits your sewing needs.
Posted: 9:33 pm on May 17th
There is a fuzzy-napped fabric with a reflective fabric on one side, used for making replacement ironing boards covers, approximately 1/2" thick. I think that would be excellent backing underneath - and I've got all 3 components here right now. THX!!!
Posted: 9:28 pm on May 17th
Posted: 9:08 pm on May 17th
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Posted: 9:02 pm on May 17th
So I went back to using my old commercial sawdust roll for the past three years. I was wondering what wood moulding would work better than the dowel rods, and you've saved me some work! Thanks!
I already plan to replace the make-shift yarn winder with a tapered spindle and a finial for a handle (sanded and waxed).
I guess stair rail parts make the best DIY craft tools!
Posted: 8:54 pm on May 17th
I have had to make do and struggle with a tailor's ham and a rolled pair of thick wool socks on the ironing board to press the latest seams. The fully lined wool coat is almost completed.
The covered rail would have been wonderful for the long straight seams. The taylor's ham and socks took care of pressing the curved sleeve seams.
Hmmm... I wonder how we can make a curved seam roll for sleeves??
A pressing table sounds ideal! The hanging rings are a great storage idea too.
I hope you get a lot of enjoyment out of using them...
Posted: 8:47 pm on May 17th
Thanks–I'm going to use this idea!
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