Facing a Facing
One of my favorite ways to finish the edges of neckline and front opening facings on an unlined garment–especially when I'm using a lightweight and/or sheer fabric and have sewn the garment together with French seams–is to face them with the interfacing. It works beautifully, even when the interfacing is fusible. Just follow these basic steps:
1. Choose the type of interfacing that's right for your fabric. I've shown two garment examples. One is a very sheer silk white blouse that I've underlined with China silk to make it a little less "see through." I've used solid silk organza for the front and back neck facings and the same organza to interface these areas. The tissue-weight green silk blouse is not so sheer and I've interfaced the facings with a lightweight fusible knit interfacing.
2. Cut the facings and interfacings according to your pattern.
3. Sew back neck facing to front facings and back neck interfacing to front interfacing.
4. Sew the interfacing unit to the facing unit at the outer edges with a ¼-inch seam, keeping right sides together. If you're using fusible interfacing, be sure that the fusing side is on the outside.
|Sew interfacing to edge of facing, right sides together.|
5. Grade the seam in favor of the interfacing (leave the interfacing seam allowance slightly wider than the facing seam allowance).
6. Carefully press the seam open. This is a little tricky when you're using a fusible. Be careful just to press along the stitching line with the very tip of the iron and don't let the iron plate touch the interfacing.
|Press seam open carefully -- especially when using fusible interfacing.|
7. Turn and press the interfacing and facing together (now you can use the whole iron), first along the seamed edge so it's nice and flat.
|Turn interfacing to the inside and fuse in place.|
8. Attach the facing to the garment and tack in place at the seams where necessary.
|The facing edge is cleanly finished.|
|When using a patterned sheer fabric, use plain organza for facings and interfacings.|
Posted on Feb 7th, 2011 in sewing, garment construction, how-to, fundamentals, edge, interfacing, facing