Shaped Twisted Bias Insertions
In this online extra to the Threads issue 158 article "Garnish with a twist," you will learn a third variation on creating bias-strip insertions. In the article, I explained how to insert bias cut bands into a straight or curved inset on a garment for a stunning embellishment. Here, you'll see how to apply the bias bands to a shaped garment section. To adhere to more dramatic contours, the shaped variation of these twisted bias-band insertions require using bias pieces of varying proportions.
Start by using the modified pattern, as outlined in the article "Garnish with a twist" from Threads #158, on newsstands now (or buy online). For this shaped variation, I have again used the example of a skirt with a yoke added.
Draft vertical lines on the insertion panel pattern for the bias band placements. As the bands encounter the panel's curves, they become more wedge-shaped. Each section of this pattern represents a finished bias band. Number the sections on the pattern for future reference. On each band create a lengthwise center fold and position the strips on the insertion panel with the folds facing center front.