3. On the horizontal lines draw buttonhole placement lines on each side and equal distance from the front fold line to position the buttonholes. Mark the ends of the buttonhole. These marks indicate the stitch termination points when sewing the horizontal seams together. In the example pictured the buttonholes are exactly 1-inch long. Make a sample with your fabric to see if the buttonhole size is right so the button can pass easily through the slot once completed. The thickness of the garment fabric and interfacing can make the finished buttonhole smaller than desired.
4. At the neckline stitching line, mark the buttonhole the same distance away from the front fold line as the others. Mark both the garment front and facing. If it is difficult to mark the stitch termination dots along the collar stitching line, wait until the collar is pinned to the garment,. Then mark the stitch termination dots on the collar following the their placement along the garment front.
5. Cut the pattern piece along the horizontal seamlines. Tape a strip of 1/8-inch graph paper to each new cut edge of the pattern piece. Match a vertical line on the graph paper to the center front fold line. Draw the grainline onto each section of the graph paper, also the center front fold line. Draw a line ⅝-inch away from the original tissue pattern for the seam allowance. Using graph paper makes adding seam allowances more precise and speeds up the process. Graph paper can also be used to lengthen a garment quickly.
Posted on Jan 9th, 2012 in sewing, online extras, garment construction, how-to, designers, garment, getting the look, sewing machine, seam, button, button holes, garment sewing