Rayon Fabric and Interfacing Placement - Threads


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Rayon Fabric and Interfacing Placement

Interfacing is the back bone for garment construction. When placed in the wrong direction, it can make the garment look less than professional. 

1. Rayon and other drapey fabrics has a tendency to relax (stretch) vertically when worn. 

 

2. Pre-shrink all woven, weft insertion, or stretch interfacings. Be sure to handle your fusible interfacings gently. To pre-shrink, place the interfacing in a sink full of hot water and let sit for 15-20 minutes (until water cools). Drain and roll the interfacing in a towel to remove excess water. Hang woven interfacing to dry over a shower rod with the glue side up. Lay knit interfacings flat to dry to avoid stretching out of shape.

The pattern placement on the interfacing is critical. Choose an interfacing that has crosswise stretch. On the facing pattern piece, check to see which way the grain line is drawn. Place the pattern in the same direction the interfacing stretches, which is crossgrain--or perpedicular to the grainline.

When the interfacing is fused to the fashion fabric, and then worn, the interfaced section of the garment will move the same way the rest of the garment that is not interfaced, moves.

If the interfacing is fused the 'old fashion way', lengthwise (without stretch), the fashion fabric/interfacing becomes static. If buttonholes are sewn along a vertical section of the garment, the fabric has a tendency to 'lop' over the buttonhole and the hem will drape down once it has passed the static facing.

Comments (18)

lovemysinger lovemysinger writes: Here is "a blast from the past." I'm a senior citizen, but still kicking. Before today's wide array of interfacings were created, I had satisfactory results simply by cutting interfacing pattern pieces out of the same fabric. I believe this would work well for challis. It would give you garment compatible added body, without employing crispness.

I lay the long straight, raw edge of such "self-interfacing" in the button-hole area, right sides together, atop and aligned at the fashion fabric's center fold line, with shaped (or outer edges together), then stitch the shaped edges together, using no wider than a 1/4" seam allowance. Clip to stitching line in curved areas.Turn and press the sewn sides flat.

Align the straight raw edge of the interfacing exactly at the front fold line and baste it in place on a line, then press the two layers in place, using a press cloth if style will have a folded-back lapel (to avoid a possible shine).


Posted: 4:57 am on March 21st

memarston memarston writes: Wow,
This is great information I love, love, love rayon fabric!

Does anyone have suggestions on where to find nice rayon preferably online as I live in the western foothills of Maine and stores are few and far between!!

Posted: 8:50 am on February 24th

LOUISE CUTTING LOUISE CUTTING writes: In step 2 it has the 'how to's' when working with interfacing...To pre-shrink, place the interfacing in a sink full of hot water and let sit for 15-20 minutes (until water cools). Drain and roll the interfacing in a towel to remove excess water. Hang woven interfacing to dry over a shower rod with the glue side up. Lay knit interfacings flat to dry to avoid stretching out of shape.

I only recommend woven or knitted interfacings for garment sewing. I don't work with any non-woven interfacing...it doesn't like to move the way knitted or woven interfacing do when fused to fashion fabrics.

I see there were a few comments that used the term 'wash' the interfacing...you just place the folded interfacing in hot water...you want to be careful when working with wet interfacing.

Sorry the wording is tiny on your computer...Rayon stretches lengthwise (parallel) to the edge of the fabric...when working with your pattern piece on the interfacing, place the facing pattern piece so it goes across the interfacing from edge to edge the way the interfacing stretches. This way it will stretch the same way the rayon fabric does once it is pressed into position.


Posted: 9:22 pm on February 1st

adelesdernier adelesdernier writes: Sewing Isalnder, I too just learned we should pre-shrink fusible interfacing. any suggestions on how to best pre-shrink it?

Posted: 2:17 pm on February 1st

adelesdernier adelesdernier writes: Thank you so much for posting this. I am getting ready to work with alot of rayon.
Posted: 2:16 pm on February 1st

maddie964 maddie964 writes: This is great! Thanks for posting. Rayon is a tricky fabric to work with so the more helpful hints and tricks, the better.
Posted: 11:04 pm on January 28th

nancye nancye writes: Someone at threads went to the trouble to print paper labels to place on the fabric pieces shown on the cutting mat. What, please, do they say? If I enlarge the photo, the printing becomes a blur. Thanks for your time and the information.
Posted: 10:23 am on January 27th

LadyKane LadyKane writes: This is a good reminder; I learned this earlier, but had totally forgotten. I also plan to sew with rayon very soon and will make sure the front plackets are interfaced correctly. Thanks for all your great advice.
Posted: 8:48 pm on January 25th

LadyKane LadyKane writes: This is a good reminder; I learned this earlier, but had totally forgotten. I also plan to sew with rayon very soon and will make sure the front plackets are interfaced correctly. Thanks for all your great advice.
Posted: 8:48 pm on January 25th

Grandmagwen Grandmagwen writes: Glad to know this as I am about to start sewing with rayon for skirts and blouses. Thank you!
Posted: 1:38 pm on January 25th

threadsquare threadsquare writes: Now if only this had been posted two weeks ago! Just made my first blouse with rayon. For next time...
Posted: 12:29 pm on January 25th

jpadden53 jpadden53 writes: I have also heard (and done) that you can hover a steam iron over the fusible and that will also shrink it. I wonder if that is true or if the washing is the only true way to preshrink the interfacing. I did not know to place the fusible crosswise and my result was less than professional. It was for a one time flower girl dress so..not that critical for the long haul.
Thanks for your always great advice.
Posted: 9:53 am on January 25th

bubbie bubbie writes: 63 years old, and sewing since I was 9................Learned something new today, and I wish I would have learned it sooner. I ADORE rayon, and this all makes sense now.
I guess you are never to old to learn.....BRAVO!
Posted: 9:11 am on January 25th

Wendelizine Wendelizine writes: Great tip. Thank you for posting it. I just bought some rayon for summer blouses so I'm going to follow these directions for the button plackets.
Posted: 9:07 am on January 25th

PegBroMac PegBroMac writes: This now explains why my rayon dress with buttons and buttonholes down the entire front is droopy and loopy. Wish I had seen this sooner. It is not pretty

Posted: 8:28 am on January 25th

sexymil282 sexymil282 writes: This information is quite interesting. However, I too did not know that you can wash fusible interfacing.
Posted: 12:15 am on January 25th

SewingIslander SewingIslander writes: This was wonderful information. I didn't know you should and could preshrink fusible interfacing. I have several pieces of rayon and other stretchy fabrics on which I will use this method.
Posted: 9:19 pm on January 24th

Rabia Rabia writes: Thank you for this information; I am about to buy a bunch of rayon fabric which is on sale, and this is a good timely tip iun case T end up interfacing some of it!!
Posted: 10:37 pm on January 23rd

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