Rayon Fabric and Interfacing Placement
Interfacing is the back bone for garment construction. When placed in the wrong direction, it can make the garment look less than professional.
1. Rayon and other drapey fabrics has a tendency to relax (stretch) vertically when worn.
2. Pre-shrink all woven, weft insertion, or stretch interfacings. Be sure to handle your fusible interfacings gently. To pre-shrink, place the interfacing in a sink full of hot water and let sit for 15-20 minutes (until water cools). Drain and roll the interfacing in a towel to remove excess water. Hang woven interfacing to dry over a shower rod with the glue side up. Lay knit interfacings flat to dry to avoid stretching out of shape.
The pattern placement on the interfacing is critical. Choose an interfacing that has crosswise stretch. On the facing pattern piece, check to see which way the grain line is drawn. Place the pattern in the same direction the interfacing stretches, which is crossgrain--or perpedicular to the grainline.
When the interfacing is fused to the fashion fabric, and then worn, the interfaced section of the garment will move the same way the rest of the garment that is not interfaced, moves.
If the interfacing is fused the 'old fashion way', lengthwise (without stretch), the fashion fabric/interfacing becomes static. If buttonholes are sewn along a vertical section of the garment, the fabric has a tendency to 'lop' over the buttonhole and the hem will drape down once it has passed the static facing.
Posted on Jan 23rd, 2012 in online extras, garment construction, tips & tricks, fundamentals, jackets, shirts, interfacing, fusibles