Grading is the process of changing a master pattern from one size to another. Today's multisize patterns clearly show how grading changes a pattern. The cutting lines move out in somewhat equal increments from a smaller pattern size to a larger one, according to a set of standard grading rules.
But standard sizes don't fit everyone. People are often a combination of sizes and lengths. Standard sizing simply isn't the answer for most of our fitting challenges, but custom grading is. It enables you to map out exactly where your figure differs from the pattern, so you can work toward a perfect fit.
Joyce Murphy demonstrates how you can custom-grade a pattern of any garment type: a jacket, blouse, dress, or pants.
From Threads #139
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