Akira Maki arrived in New York in 1974, after three years of training with one of Japan’s top designers, Mme. Minami, a specialist in the art of bias. Within two years, Akira was the guiding hand behind Halstons’ bias-cut line, and soon became Halston’s chief assistant designer for evening wear. On his own since 1981, Akira is a champion of the bias cut, and his flowing gowns have adorned luminaries like Nancy Reagan, the Duchess of Marlborough, and Marilyn Quayle (whose inaugural gown he designed).

The Akira look is soft and feminine, full of gathers and diagonal draping, often presented in bold colors, but always in delicate and seductive fabrics. Nonetheless, Akira’s view of design is far from romantic. He is a rationalist at heart, having learned from Mme. Minami that all dressmaking can be regarded as a problem in mathematics. For the curious admirer of his work, this is a boon, because Akira can always explain the evolution of his creations in the most logical manner. 

Author Ann Hyde shares patterns and techniques from the mastermind behind Halston’s eveningwear.

From Threads #37