How to Make a Precision Placket
Sew a crisp placket into any sleeve
Replace the continuous vent binding on any shirt pattern's sleeve with an impeccably finished classic placket using this method. You'll need 1⁄4-inch-wide fusible web tape, such as Lite Steam-A-Seam 2, and a hot iron for a crisp finish. Using these fusible strips helps maintain accuracy while turning and pressing the narrow seam allowances, and holds them securely in place for stitching.
1. Lay both sleeves right side down. Position them so their cuff edges point toward you, and the sleeve fronts face each other. Pin each placket, right sides down, on the sleeves' wrong sides. The placket's tall column faces the sleeve front. Align the slash line with the sleeve vent marking.
2. Sew through both layers along stitching lines 3 and 4, pivoting at the top corners. Cut through all layers along the slash line. Clip into both corners at the top of the vent, being careful not to cut the stitches.
3. Press both columns toward the slashed vent over the seam allowances. Trim the vent seam allowances to 1⁄8 inch to eliminate bulk. Don't trim away the clipped triangle at the top of the slash. Fold and finger-press the placket's foldlines toward the placket's wrong side. Then, flip the placket to the sleeve's right side through the vent.
Posted on Apr 18th, 2012 in sewing, online extras, garment construction, how-to, threads magazine, sleeve, threads issue 161, placket