Make an Embellished, Denim Fold-Over Bag
Construct the Bag
The seams that join the top and side layers also attach the top handles and the ring tabs to connect the shoulder strap. The bag and lining are sewn together at the top edge with a piece of faux leather trim sandwiched in the seam. When the bag is turned, the trim folds down into the bag interior to protect the lining's top edge.
1) Find and mark the center of the bag front's top edge. Clip or pin a handle in place on the right side, placing each end 2-1⁄4-inches from the mark. Angle each end so that the handle corner closest to the mark is about 1⁄2-inch below the top. Baste the handle in place with a 1⁄4-inch seam allowance. Repeat with the other bag handle.
2) Baste the ring tabs in place. Fold each tab through a ring. Fold the tab in half at a 45-degree angle, and pin or clip the folded tab to the bag front's edge, aligning it with the zipper opening center. Baste the tabs in place with a 1⁄4-inch seam allowance. Trim the tab ends even with the bag body's edge.
3) Sew the bag bottom seam. With right sides together and edges aligned, clip the bag front and back pieces together along the bottom edge. Use a 3.0-mm to 4.0-mm stitch length to sew the bottom seam with a 1⁄2-inch seam allowance. Finger-press the bottom seam open. Fold the bag body right sides together. Align and clip the top and side edges. Sew the bag body side seams with a 1⁄2-inch seam allowance. Finger-press each side seam open.
4) "Box" the bag bottom. Fold a bottom corner into a triangle with the side seam at center. Lay the triangle flat, and with a ruler perpendicular to the side seam, mark a line at the point where there is 2-inches of material on either side of the side seam. Clip the folded corner in place, then stitch along the line perpendicular to the side seam. Turn the work with the needle down and sew this corner two or three times, backstitching to secure the seam ends. Repeat for the other bag body corner. Trim the triangle corners to 1⁄2-inch
5) Sew the lining. Place the lining pieces right sides together with raw edges aligned. Start at the top edge on one side. Sew around the bag side and bottom edges with a 1⁄2-inch seam allowance. Leave an 8-inch opening in one side seam. Box the lining corners as for the bag exterior.
6) Clip the 2-inch-wide faux leather bag top interior trim to the bag's top edge, right sides together. Overlap the ends near a side seam, and cut the overlap to 1⁄2-inch. Baste with a 1⁄4-inch seam allowance from the top edge. The bag handles are sandwiched between the bag exterior and the trim piece and pointing down.
7) Place the lining inside the bag body, right sides together. Align the top edges and side seams, and clip or pin in place. Sew the lining and bag body together at the top edge using a 1⁄2-inch seam allowance and a 3.5-mm stitch length.
8) Turn the bag right side out through the opening in the lining side seam. Turn up the handles, and turn the bag top trim to the bag's interior. Clip or pin the trim in place, then topstitch around the bag top edge twice, with a 1⁄8-inch seam allowance, then a 3⁄8-inch seam allowance. Pink the trim's free edge to about 3⁄8 inch wide.
from SewStylish Fall 2012, pp. 62-68