We often think of darts as merely tools to fit a garment. However, with a little creativity, they become much more. It’s easy to change simple bust and waist darts by relocating them into stylish, one-of-a-kind design elements.
The basic process for moving darts is: Find and circle the bust point; decide where you want to place the new dart; cut the new dart open, and close the original dart or darts. To make this process foolproof, always keep the pattern flat. This clearly shows if the transferred dart fullness was accounted for accurately.
Using flat-pattern design methods, Annie O’Connor shows you how to combine or relocate darts to give your garments a new look.
From Threads #158
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This is a great article for creating design darts, but as the article states, it is not about adjusting the fit of a dart. (It says to start with a pattern that fits you well.) My problem is I have a pattern whose bust darts are too high.
How do I lower the darts? Do I just copy the shape of the dart fullness at a lower point on the pattern? Then how do I adjust the section of the pattern edge where the dart fullnes used to be?
Thanks for any advice anyone can give.
As I understand this, you do indeed copy the shape of the dart fullness at a lower point on the pattern, with the end of the dart within the circle of the fullest part of the bust. You then close the old dart by folding the pattern along the lines of the dart, then clean up the side of the pattern. I hope this is correct and helps. Try it in paper first, then a muslin.
Hi user 1111732,
Moving a dart down is pretty easy. Just draw a rectangle around the whole dart, cut it out and move it down to where you want it. Then clean up the edges. There are some wonderful books out there to help you with fitting the bust. My fave is "Fit for Real People" by Patti Palmer (I think.)
On moving the dart down. I should have mentioned that you'll have to fill in the space above with pattern paper. Not to leave a big hole in your pattern! <:~)
Awesome article! And, so in touch with today's newest styles. I have been fumbling around trying to move and/or create design darts on dresses and tops, but this both simplifies and expedites the process. Thanks.
I love the look of the dart in centre front