Using Buttons as Embellishment
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The next step was to check for shrinkage. Here is the sleeve pattern on the sleeve piece, comparing the original pattern with the worked sleeve piece. |
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Here's the chalk markings, showing the areas where the shrinkage occurred on the sleeves. I compared all of the sections to the patterns, re-marked stitching lines, then added seam allowances, and cut the pieces out. |
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On the back, I added a back stay from canvas, and stitched the buttons to the canvas at points--this transfers the weight of the buttons somewhat to the canvas. |
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The jacket fronts got the same treatment, as did the sleeves. |
Posted on Nov 5th, 2012 in design, garment construction, embellishments, home decoration, embroidery































Comments (49)
Posted: 9:50 pm on March 14th
Posted: 12:02 pm on December 9th
Posted: 7:27 am on December 9th
i'm stunned by the nasty comments.
Posted: 1:28 am on November 28th
Posted: 10:12 pm on November 24th
Posted: 8:27 pm on November 23rd
I've loved to design and sew since I was a little kid. I was always inventing and improvising with fabric, and my godmother taught me the basics about sewing and cutting from patterns. When it came the time to decide a career I couldn't choose fashion design (decided to go to computer sciences) but that didn't prevent me from still doing my own experiments, and I was known at college for having my own style. Even when I was getting married I set out myself on the adventure of making my wedding dress, because nobody understanded what I wanted (it was something absolutely different from the trend at the time).
All that time I was doing things just with basic knowledge, some natural and learned skills, a small sewing machine and a lot of audacity. Nothing else, not even a dress form or a whole body mirror, or a sewing buddy, just me and lots of mistakes.
Then, after few years after graduating from university and marrying, the company I worked for was closed and I suddenly found myself jobless. And I decided to take the money from indemnization to pursue my dream to become a fashion designer, so I enrolled in a design college, and eventually obtained my degree. By that time, my husband was transferred to another place, so I went after him and had to begin from zero.
I have been lucky enough to have a small, but loyal, list of clients, and I still have that creativity that come to me when I have some fabric and a pair of scissors in my hands. But someway, in the middle of the story, I stopped doing things to myself, my very first client. I don't know exactly why, but have to admit that there is some self criticism and maybe I've become too rigid with myself.
And this is your gift. In your answer to Couture Academic you reminded me why I became a fashion designer in the first place. You made me to recognize that I have lost that freshness, that impulsivity, and all those things that made me the way I am now and still can be found in my work... for others. So, thank you for being loyal to yourself and share that philosophy with us, your readers.
This weekend I'll be myself again and will make my next invent, for wearing it on the Christmas party of the company my husband works for. Your aesthetic is not like my style, but I love your techniques, so probably I'll be browsing thru your articles and your book, and then steal an idea, or two.
Thanks again, and keep going!!
Posted: 7:38 pm on November 23rd
Thanks for the encouragement! I actually wore the jacket for Thanksgiving yesterday--with a white pleat front evening shirt complete with shirt studs and my grandpa's gold cuff links, black brocade corset, fabulous shoes, and torn up jeans. A real hit. The crowd, which was quite an arty Manhattan crowd, "got it", as you did.
To answer your questions:
Did I always have that experimental spirit? Well, in a way yes. I was always an odd duck--a chubby sissy kid in Kansas and Oklahoma, who sewed for Barbie, made things, and liked clothes waaaay too much for a boy. So early on, I understood that I wasn't going to fit in, and in a way, that freed me to do what I wanted to do, in many different areas of my life. Sometimes I ponder the early days, and all the hazing that I got. There were times I wished I'd fit in, just so I didn't have to duck the physical and emotional bullying I endured. But I understood it wasn't possible.
However, that experience really has served me well. I do what I want to do, in as many areas of my life as I can. (There are always areas where one does things one would rather not do, but to keep those to the absolute minimum--that's my aim.) I operate on the principle that it's easier to ask forgiveness than ask permission. In my life as well as in my work.
I feel bad for people who fit in, or are always trying to fit in (unless that's what makes you happy--then I wholeheartedly support it). "Fitting in" when that's not what one wants to do, is a tremendous drain on creative energy that could be expended on other, more interesting and satisfying pursuits. Since my default position is that I'm an odd duck (a friend calls me a "specialty item", not to the popular taste), I am free to experiment.
As for the time limit thing: I believe that learning the craft is key in making good work. But learning the craft is a life-long pursuit--I'm still learning, and want to always know more. There are many ways to achieve a certain result, and I want to know as many as I can, so I can choose the best way. So don't handicap yourself by some artificial illusion of a time limit.
In regards to learning the craft, a very smart professor said to me in the beginning of my career, that one should make the process of creation so invisible that one had to accept the work on aesthetics alone. If the craft was so polished that it was invisible, then I could get away with anything aesthetically--nothing then was a fluke. That appealed to my sense of independence. So, study and make things, learn the "rules" so to speak.
There will come a time, though, when you will know to start stepping out of the box--your heart will tell you when it's time. When you step out, know that part of this journey includes taking risks, and the possibility of making mistakes. Some posters here thought this jacket was a big mistake--see also the posts on "fantasy fur" for more hilarious comments in that vein--oy! When I was given these buttons, I was willing to risk making that mistake, and this jacket is what I got. And it was a load of fun to make.
You mention fear--of wasting time or materials. Really, it's not a waste, if you've learned something, enjoyed the process, or fed your soul in some way. Sometimes it's disappointing if the work doesn't turn out exactly as you'd seen it in your head. But it can sometimes turn out much different and better--and you would have missed that if you had given in to that fear. So when you can, let go of that.
Really, don't be afraid to burn though materials, be they fabric, buttons (!) or anything else. The worst that can happen, is that you'll learn something (even if that is that "this didn't work out so well"), but you'll also discover something.
This is a really satisfying journey, and it sounds like you'd like to put your foot on the path. Some people want or need permission to go do this. You have mine. But more importantly, you have your own permission to do this. You gave it to yourself, by asking these questions.
Posted: 5:56 pm on November 23rd
Posted: 6:52 am on November 23rd
and protects the lining and the wearer (me) from the shanks of the buttons!
Posted: 10:26 pm on November 13th
But since you punched holes in the material for the shanks, do the shanks stick you?
I think this is a very clever idea. Reminds me of some pictures I saw of street entertainers in England. They use little white buttons on dark suits and dresses to make patterns to catch the eye of pedestrians.
Posted: 9:43 pm on November 13th
Posted: 12:00 am on November 13th
Thank You!
Posted: 12:02 pm on November 9th
In heavy embellishment, there's always a possibility of shrinkage (something I discovered through bitter experience), so I'm glad that my mistake can benefit you all out there...
Now, off to decide what I'm going to wear this with for my fab invitation for Thanksgiving!
Posted: 9:43 pm on November 8th
Posted: 7:36 pm on November 8th
Posted: 2:51 pm on November 8th
Posted: 1:29 am on November 8th
Craftyrose
Posted: 10:05 pm on November 7th
Cheers, Craftyrose
Posted: 10:03 pm on November 7th
Posted: 10:00 pm on November 7th
And while the result may not be to everyone's taste, labeling this jacket with negative adjectives is missing the point. These articles are here for sharing skills, expertise, creativity, knowledge and points-of-view. If you don't like the result, isn't it much more productive to take away something useful from the article rather than dismissing the entire thing as "ugly"…even if it's just learning that brass-button-embellished jackets are not for you.
And yes, you *do* wear it well!
Posted: 5:01 pm on November 7th
Posted: 4:20 pm on November 7th
Posted: 12:48 pm on November 7th
Posted: 11:54 am on November 7th
I love your jacket. I'm not sure if it would be right for me, but it is beautiful and it looks great on you. I appreciate your sharing with us how this was put together. There are many other types and kind of embellishments that could be used by people to personalize this jacket or not.
Wonderful idea. Keep up the great work.
Madelaine
Posted: 11:35 am on November 7th
Posted: 10:50 am on November 7th
Posted: 10:13 am on November 7th
Some comments:
To Brocadegoddess: I was referencing the idea of the Pearly Kings when I decided to do this jacket. So, while not an original concept (and I'm the first to admit it), it is my particular take on that idea. I was going for a cross between the Pearly Kings and a matador jacket. And it has a really sweet jingling sound when I wear it.
And, to those who seem a bit puzzled or challenged by this jacket: I've said this in posts before and will say it again. I'm flattered when people are amused by or like what I make, but I design for myself, and for those who pay me. My own taste, or the taste of my customers, is all I really care about. Since this was for my own pleasure, this is what I came up with, and I look fabulous in it.
If we all liked the same things, the world would be a boring place, with no new ideas or points of view. Variety is what makes up that beautiful blend of people all over the world. However, if something isn't to your taste, saying just that is a legitimate comment. Learn from the sewing information and leave the aesthetics aside. I'm puzzled, though, by words like "tacky" and "scarey". Are they really necessary?
Posted: 10:08 am on November 7th
Posted: 9:21 am on November 7th
Mr. King has talent however he should use it more adequately. The reason why people want to sew is to make garments that are unique and beautifully done. Tacky garments can be found at Walmart.
Posted: 9:14 am on November 7th
Posted: 7:03 am on November 7th
Posted: 11:54 pm on November 6th
Posted: 11:53 pm on November 6th
Posted: 10:09 pm on November 6th
Posted: 9:14 pm on November 6th
I have bags full of a life of collecting buttons this inspired me. I love using antique buttons when I can like in this French King costume all buttons are antique and brass.If I may share http://smu.gs/YFtSAX
Posted: 7:39 pm on November 6th
Posted: 7:09 pm on November 6th
Posted: 6:45 pm on November 6th
Posted: 6:06 pm on November 6th
Posted: 5:12 pm on November 6th
Posted: 5:07 pm on November 6th
Posted: 4:49 pm on November 6th
Posted: 4:25 pm on November 6th
Posted: 4:11 pm on November 6th
Posted: 3:51 pm on November 6th
Senor King, you are neither bounded, nor barricaded, by conventional thought.
Breakthroughs are your stock and trade.
Posted: 1:35 pm on November 6th
Posted: 9:26 pm on November 5th
Posted: 9:19 pm on November 5th
Posted: 7:17 pm on November 5th
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