Combining Fabric Weaves and Weights
In Threads #164 (December 2012/January 2013) contributing editor Mary Ray creates a stir with garments that combine textures, prints, fibers, and weaves. Learn how to balance weaves and weights in this excerpt from Mary's article and check out the complete issue for more on combining fabrics. This issue is also available on your tablet. Download the App for your iPad and Windows devices now.
Combining two or more fabrics in the same garment has always been one of my sewing pleasures. I love the way one fabric can enhance another and turn a simple style into a complex creation. Combining fabrics is also a little trick I often use when I just don't have enough of one fabric to complete a project.
Creating an artistic grouping, however, takes planning to get the best result. I'll show you how to choose fabrics that work together visually and structurally and how to determine the best placement for multiple fabrics in the same garment. I'll give you some tips on how to balance different fabric weights and ways to sew disparate fabrics together.
You'll achieve unique results (no one else will make the garment in quite the same way), plus the ability to add or emphasize details or areas with your fabric choices.
How to Balance Weaves & Weights
Joining fabrics of different weaves and weights is another opportunity for adding detail and interest to a garment. Loosely woven fabrics, lace, and novelty knits can complement tightly woven taffeta, velvet, menswear wools, and even denim. Treat them similarly to fabrics of varying textures. Use a knit and a woven together, a woven and leather, a knit and leather, chiffon and wool tweed, taffeta and denim. All of these combinations can offer wonderful creative results.
Give special consideration to how you stitch and finish the seams-each fabric type may require a different technique. You can compromise and use the best option throughout the garment or finish each seam differently. Other sewing considerations may involve reducing the fullness in a seam so it can be eased without difficulty; stabilizing a seam allowance on a stretchy fabric; overlapping edges instead of sewing right sides together; finishing edges differently on each fabric and making the transitions work.
Topstitching the jersey seam allowances flattened and stabilized the woven silk.