Margaery Tyrell, Game of Thrones
This is my replica of the coat and dress that Margaery Tyrell wears in season two of Game of Thrones. I made it for a friend of mine who wore it for Halloween this year. We took notes and sketched out the jacket from watching the show and I went to work! Please see my Picasa album for more pictures: http://bit.ly/Q0Tpnv
To start I drafted a pattern much like a corset, using the widest measurement (her shoulder circumference) and dividing up the front into princess seams that ended in the shoulder. Since the coat has no shoulder seam to support the weight of the garment I made sure the waist fit snug. After two test muslins I had a final pattern.
The fabric was the most difficult part of this project. I sew for a custom home dec workroom so I have access to a LOT of fabric samples, and yet I still could not find an exact match. The fabric she chose was the closest we could come to the original, which I understand was most likely milled specifically for the show's costumers, and I think best represented the spirit of the original. Sadly this fabric is now discontinued. The lining is polyester chiffon that I chose mainly for its color and backed with a black fusible interfacing to give it extra body and depth of color.
The armscye embellishments were the second most difficult aspect of the garment. I took screenshots of the coat, sized them up to approximately full scale and copied the shape of the trim. I then copied the back and front side pattern pieces, joined them at the outside shoulder seam and started tracing on the trim piece by piece. It took some fiddling to get the spacing right but I had luckily sized it up perfectly and ended with a full repeat of the trim at each end. Each trim repeat is comprised of six rows of flat woven cord that I machine stitched on to interfaced quilter's cotton of the same color, starting with the smallest inside row and adding each row around the outside edge. The raw edges at the start are hidden by each successive row and the ending edges are hidden by the next repeat. I fray-checked the outer- and inner-most stitching lines from the back side before cutting off the excess fabric backing. I then attached the completed trim to the garment after the face fabric was completely joined, stabilizer added and the facing was attached to the armscyes, but before adding the lining. The two completed trims took 24 yards of cording and 6 1/2 hours of sewing!
To provide body and stability to the bodice and collar of the coat I used a woven sew-in stabilizer that extends just past the waistline. I knew that it would be hard to flatten the seams in this stabilizer so I simply overlapped the edges to the correct width and zigzagged down the seam. I only added seam allowances to the seams; the collar edge, armscye and front edges were cut to finished size. This worked very well and added no bulk to the seams. I matched the stabilizer to the main body of the coat (done after the armscye facing but before the trim was added), basting along the edges to secure it, and then added a waist stay with 1" twill tape. I stitched in the ditch from the right side at all the seams to secure the tape and left the ends long so it could be caught in the front edge seams.
The main body of the coat is pattern matched at all seams except the outside shoulder. The lining has a pattern matched self fabric facing for the front edges. I machine sewed the front edges and hand sewed the collar edge and hem. The collar and hem also have 1" horsehair braid to help support the shape. I used three large bar hooks and three snaps to close the front and added a sparkly button at the waist as was on the original.
For the dress I used McCall's 4490 (view C) with one design change, cutting off the tops of the sleeves, and the same poly chiffon as the coat lining.
The whole project took me 39 hours from start to finish!
Since I come from a home dec background I used many of the skills and finishing techniques I have learned over the years on this project. I feel that my sewing ability has increased dramatically in the past years due to my job, challenging myself with projects I never thought I would tackle, educating myself in new and more complex techniques and making the plunge to buy a good sewing machine. The one hole in my sewing arsenal is a decent serger!
Pattern or design used: My own design