How to Miter the Inside Corner of a Hong Kong Finish
Recently I taught this technique to my Haute Couture Construction class students at F.I.T. They asked where to find it in the literature, but I don't know--I figured this one out myself. I'm sure someone else out there has gotten there first, but I wanted to share this, so you can all learn from it and I can send this link to my students.
|1. Begin with a raw inside corner that needs a Hong Kong binding.|
2. Cut bias strips 1-1/4-in. wide for a 1/4-in. wide finished binding.
3. Stitch the bias strip with right sides of the fabric together and the edges aligned using a 1/4-in. wide seam allowance--end the stitching 1/4-in. down from the intersecting cut edge.
4. Back-tack at the end of the stitching. The first row of stitching was sewn in green for clarity.
|5. Turn the work over, and clip just the wool at an angle, ending the clip at thelast stitch as shown.|
|6. Open up the fabric to form a straight line, match the cut wool and bias edges. This causes the clip at the corner to spread and form an angle. Pin the bias strip in position.|
|7. Turn the work right side up to expose the bias strip, which lays flat when going into the machine.|
|8. Continue the stitching line by starting at the end of the stitching row. I've changed the thread to red to show where the stitching continues. Sew the remainder of the bias strip to the wool.|
|9. This is what the work looks like from the back. You can see the different colors of stitching change at the corner.|
|10. Press the seam allowances toward the bias strip.|
|11. To form the miter: Fold the work at the corner, as shown.|
|12. Lay the seam lines of the bias strips on top of each other, and pin.|
|13. With a short stitch--1.0mm--sew a "V" shape, following the cut edge of the seam allowance as your guide. I've changed the thread to yellow for this.|
|14. Clip into the "V", and clip the free bias edge open, as indicated.|
15. Press the seam allowances of the miter.
16. Next, turn the bias strip up and over the cut edges of the wool. Press. This photo shows the work from the back.
17. I chose to finish the Hong Kong binding with a hand running stitch--this is more flexible than a machine finish, and isn't visible from the front.
18. When sewing, just catch the wool about halfway between the folded edge and the machine sewing--the stitches stay invisible this way.
After you've finished sewing, you can trim the bias strip close to the stitching if you wish to remove more bulk.
|Here is the finished miter--clean and crisp!|
Posted on Nov 27th, 2012 in sewing, garment construction, how-to, tips & tricks, Hong Kong binding, mitering corner