How to Miter the Inside Corner of a Hong Kong Finish

Recently I taught this technique to my Haute Couture Construction class students at F.I.T. They asked where to find it in the literature, but I don't know--I figured this one out myself. I'm sure someone else out there has gotten there first, but I wanted to share this, so you can all learn from it and I can send this link to my students.

1. Begin with a raw inside corner that needs a Hong Kong binding.

2. Cut bias strips 1-1/4-in. wide for a 1/4-in. wide finished binding.

3. Stitch the bias strip with right sides of the fabric together and the edges aligned using a 1/4-in. wide seam allowance--end the stitching 1/4-in. down from the intersecting cut edge.

4. Back-tack at the end of the stitching. The first row of stitching was sewn in green for clarity.

5. Turn the work over, and clip just the wool at an angle, ending the clip at thelast stitch as shown.

6. Open up the fabric to form a straight line, match the cut wool and bias edges. This causes the clip at the corner to spread and form an angle. Pin the bias strip in position.

7. Turn the work right side up to expose the bias strip, which lays flat when going into the machine.

8. Continue the stitching line by starting at the end of the stitching row. I've changed the thread to red to show where the stitching continues. Sew the remainder of the bias strip to the wool.

9. This is what the work looks like from the back. You can see the different colors of stitching change at the corner.

10. Press the seam allowances toward the bias strip.

11. To form the miter: Fold the work at the corner, as shown.

12. Lay the seam lines of the bias strips on top of each other, and pin.

13. With a short stitch--1.0mm--sew a "V" shape, following the cut edge of the seam allowance as your guide. I've changed the thread to yellow for this.

14. Clip into the "V", and clip the free bias edge open, as indicated.

15. Press the seam allowances of the miter.

16. Next, turn the bias strip up and over the cut edges of the wool. Press. This photo shows the work from the back.

17. I chose to finish the Hong Kong binding with a hand running stitch--this is more flexible than a machine finish, and isn't visible from the front.

18. When sewing, just catch the wool about halfway between the folded edge and the machine sewing--the stitches stay invisible this way.

After you've finished sewing, you can trim the bias strip close to the stitching if you wish to remove more bulk.

Here is the finished miter--clean and crisp!

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Kenneth King, contributor
Posted on Nov 27th, 2012 in sewing, garment construction, how-to, tips & tricks, mitering corner, Hong Kong binding

Comments (17)

CKsews writes: HK finish to seams, hems, etc. always makes the everyday garment something special. This demonstration is especially helpful and extremely well presented to allow any seamstress to use the HK finish for professional looking results. Thanks Kenneth.
Posted: 12:02 pm on February 20th

DSegal writes: Kenneth! Happy Holidays from SF! I was the "button bitch" at Britex for many years. Good to see you are still improving standards for the masses of sewers who need you! Now I have to go find some corners to miter.
Posted: 7:23 pm on December 8th

Sewista writes: I love to use HK seams and this is such a wonderful bit of finesse. Thank you again, Kenneth.
Posted: 9:05 pm on December 3rd

user-2297052 writes: This is so timely - I think I can use this finish for a jersey binding on a V neck dress that doesn't have a CF seam. Brilliant
Posted: 1:47 pm on December 3rd

KennethDKing writes: To Jodie: Thanks for the kind words! I had to chuckle, though--"wholesome"? It's sweet of you to say that, but my friends would differ on that particular adjective.

Thanks for giving me a smile today!
Posted: 5:43 pm on November 29th

Buttonscreates writes: Kenneth, you are a genius and incredible instructor. After sewing off and on for 40 years I have learned so much from you. You are so wholesome, a true teacher that communicates so well. I have your DVD's and am taking a crafts class of yours.

I feel like I have gotten to know you even though we haven't met. When my family settles down and I can take time from me, I want to take my future vacations coming to events and classes to learn more about what I love to do.

I have learned more in the last four years on the internet than in the sewing I did from 7 years old through College with a degree in Home Economics/Textile Science. I actually taught the beginning construction classes for my instructor.

The school has come a long way since. My daughter is there in same College getting a Fashion Analysis degree with minor in Marketing. They have the Coda system now and teach so much more than when I was there 30 years ago.

Thank you so much for your enthusiasm, dedication and sharing your knowledge!
Jodie
Posted: 9:58 am on November 29th

beulah writes: Thank you Kenneth for such detailed instructions. You are always very, very clear, and thank you fofofashion for your explanation of some of the uses for this technique.
Posted: 10:43 am on November 28th

KennethDKing writes: To JPadden: The photo with the red thread and running stitch, is the back of the work, which will lie against the fabric when the skirt gets hemmed. Flip the work over, and the last photo is the front of the word. That's why you don't see the raw edge in the last photo--it's there along with the red running stitches, on the back of the work.
Posted: 9:16 am on November 28th

jpadden53 writes: Between the step where you have the red thread running stitch and the final photo, it seems that the binding has been turned under? I do not see the running stitch at all. I know that a running stitch in the color coordinated thread will not show as the red did, but is there a raw edge in the final photo?
Posted: 8:20 am on November 28th

KennethDKing writes: To Mariastephens: This finish is on the hem allowance of a skirt with back vent--the raw edge needs the nice finish, and my students had a difficult time mastering this, so this is how I figured out how to show it. Now the blog is posted, I'll refer them here to print it off so they can keep it with their notes....
Posted: 9:56 pm on November 27th

LuvThreadsMagazine writes: Senor King,

Your practical pefectionism can slay any dragon (and there be dragons out there).
Posted: 9:14 pm on November 27th

fotofashion writes: I, of course, am not Kenneth but I do use this finish frequently. One use is on the facing of a jacket whether you line it or not. (In this case the lining goes under the facing)it looks almost like a zip-out lining. I have also used this finish on seams of silk blouses and seams and hems of skirts. You may say "but that is a lot of work for something that will not be seen", yes, but if you like the luxury of the finish remember, YOU will see it.
Posted: 9:00 pm on November 27th

Scheri writes: Beautiful finish.

Posted: 7:03 pm on November 27th

bubbecraft writes: How cool is that! That solves my binding problem on quilts with inside corners! Thank you!
Posted: 6:19 pm on November 27th

rhoni478 writes: Amazing! Thanks so much. Rhonda
Posted: 6:15 pm on November 27th

user-766440 writes: Kenneth, you have come up with a brilliant solution again.
Posted: 5:41 pm on November 27th

mariastephens00 writes: it is a beautiful finnish and please forgive my ignorance but...what type of garment would you use this technique on please
Posted: 5:36 pm on November 27th

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