Bust Dart Pressing: Cup Size is a Factor in Which Technique You Choose - Threads


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Bust Dart Pressing: Cup Size is a Factor in Which Technique You Choose

If you were taught, like I was, to press a horizontal bust dart down, try this alternative. For this technique, the size of the bust cup determines in which direction the pressing should be done.

  Option 1: If the bust is a size 'A' or 'B' cup, the dart is pressed down and over a ham, in the usual manner.

 

  Option 2: However, if the bust cup size is a 'C' or 'D' cup or larger, the dart is pressed up, also over a ham, to mimic the curvature of the body.

LOUISE CUTTING

Comments (14)

Grandma2six Grandma2six writes: This is good to know since I've gone from a B to C cup. Thanks Louise!
Posted: 2:15 pm on August 3rd

Jill_Lessing Jill_Lessing writes: Just noticing that's a side dart. I've been drafting a tank top and found that I wanted to lower the dart more to a french style position. This has a way of lifting the bust and removing bulk from that side position. I don't know that I would want to press the seam upwards in this case! Great tip!
Posted: 11:24 am on March 6th

dsantil71 dsantil71 writes: I am so glad I am getting to learn this before I try to sew anything I want to wear! I have only sewn home decor, blankets & purses so far but I am finally ready to venture into sewing my own clothing!
Posted: 12:15 pm on January 24th

memarston memarston writes: Louise Cutting you are the reason I have the insider member ship. Your videos are amazing insightful and provide many aah! moments. Please keep up your fabulous work. I find myself using more of your tips than I ever imagined.
Posted: 7:49 am on January 24th

ustabahippie ustabahippie writes: I love the technique of pressing bust darts up. I had just learned to do this for a C/D cup when watching a video on fitting the full bust. After 60 years of sewing, what a revelation!
Posted: 3:01 pm on January 22nd

CKsews CKsews writes: Excellent guidelines for directional pressing based on bust size. Another consideration for pressing when using a very bulky fabric like a polarec or fleeced knit, is to cut dart on fold to within 1 to 1.5 inch from point after sewing; then press dart open. This works regardless of bust size to eliminate any bulk that attracts eye to area. You can then use a wide zig-zag stitch on the dart seam and trim close to stitch to remove extra fabric/bulk. NOTE: the zig-zag will show as a design feature. This works very well for making jackets or vests with winter fleeces.
Posted: 1:08 pm on January 22nd

BarbaraHewitt BarbaraHewitt writes: I have used these methods for sometime and they work great.
Posted: 12:02 am on January 22nd

nanaof26 nanaof26 writes: those girls need any lift they can get…. I will press up from now on.
Posted: 10:55 pm on January 21st

understitcher understitcher writes: This trick also seems to work well for those of us who have a low Bust Point. It make the Bust look more uplifted and "Perky"!
Posted: 7:27 pm on January 21st

user-2657171 user-2657171 writes: When I was a double D cup I rotated the bust dart so it was diagonal to the side seam and ironed it down because it seemed to give me a better fit and less flaunt. Now that I am flat-chested (breast cancer-double mastectomy) I avoid wearing a bra and any breast dart. But if the style requires it I think ironing the breast dart up would make the fitting less noticeable.
Posted: 7:16 pm on January 21st

MysteryWoman MysteryWoman writes: Good to know! Thanks, Louise! I always like to learn these little tricks that make my garments look better.
Posted: 4:06 pm on January 21st

Patriciasew Patriciasew writes: I generally press all bust darts with the 'leg' of the dart up. This eliminates any light catching on the ridge of the fold and and saying "here is the dart!". I suggest to make two darts in off-cut of the fabric you are sewing with and press one down and one up, as shown in the pictures, check if the light is going to catch on the top of the fold, i.e. which one is less visible on the outside of the garment.
Happy sewing, Patricia.

Posted: 3:45 pm on January 21st

sewdomani sewdomani writes: It makes sense ! One of those things that prompt the query 'why didn't I think of that before !' Great stuff.
Posted: 2:46 pm on January 21st

user-2120205 user-2120205 writes: Thank goodness you have affirmed my opinion. After years of renegade upward dart pressing for my generous 'girls' I can rest easy. Big downward darts always looked so depressing to me! Thank you Louise x
Posted: 5:51 pm on January 20th

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