Couture Techniques for a Better Fitting Waistband
There are a variety of small finishing details that further enhance a waistband. Below are three that complement the couture construction techniques explained on the previous pages.
Thread bars are often used in place of metal eyes in couture garments. To sew them, begin with a length of doubled thread that is waxed and pressed. Anchor the thread on one side of the bar's placement, hiding the knot. Draw the thread over the waistband's surface, and anchor it on the opposite side, then return to the first side, anchoring it again. These four thread strands form the bar's base. Use your thumb to hold the thread out of the way, slide the needle under the base threads, and pull it most of the way through. Pass the needle back through the small loop created from underneath, then pull the loop closed. Repeat until the entire bar is covered, sliding the knots down along the base threads so they're closely packed. Secure the thread at the end with a few small, tight stitches.
Sew thread bars using a half-inch stitch. Slide each knot formed down the base threads' leanth, stacking oen on top of the other.
Video: Learn how to sew a thread bar in this video tutorial from Susan Khlaje.