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not quiet finished, need advice

Need to add an underarm gusset.

photo taken with web cam by Belinda

Back of jacket with yoke.  Since the pattern was not a consistant matchable pattern I offset it with the piping in the yoke to make the mismatch a little less obvious and to make the contrasting  collar blend better.

burda pattern 9487

Problem area, the sleeve seam is too firm because of the 3 layers of fabric sewn as 1.  I need to add a gusset here.  DGD says it is not comfortable.  I need advice on sewing in the gusset and deciding how large to make it. 

The three fabrics that I used sewing it as one fabric.

not quiet finished, need advice

Need to add an underarm gusset.

photo taken with web cam by Belinda

I made a jacket for DGD from Burda kids pattern 9487 (a peacoat with gathers at the back yoke). DGD looks adorable in it but it is uncomfortable under the arms. I want to put gussets under the arms to get the seams out of the way and give her a little more flexibility. Could someone give me a link to instructions somewhere or even a video or even your own instructions and opinions. The problem is that the sleeve seam bothers her. Because I have used 3 layers of fabric as one for the whole jacket (poly satin,wool,poly lining), the seam is thick and hard. I tried trimming the wool out to the seam and have weakened the sleeve seam.I do not have enough fabric left to recut the sleeves. The sleeves are a bit narrow so I have taken out the stitches to mid forearm and will resew them with a 3/8inch seam instead of 5/8 inch. giving her a little more room. I will do the jacket side seam the same to match the sleeve seam. I do not know how large to calculate the size of the gusset and how to join it to the sleeve seam. I thought about hand appliqueing the gusset in place so the seam would be flat .

If I made this jacket again I would choose a size larger. And maybe still add gussets for freedom of movement. This is a size 12 and is the largest pattern available. It needed an underarm  sleeve seam 1/2 to 1 inch wider from the armscye to the wrist and and the jacket side seam widened the same amount. I will post Photos of DGD in it when completed. 

Belinda

Grandma C, member
Posted on Dec 30th, 2012 in reader's closet

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Grandma C writes: If I could post more pictures I would show my progress with this alteration I need to do. I am adding 1.5 inches to the circumfrrence of the armscye and upper sleeve with a 6"x3" diamond spreading the underarm sleefe and jacket seam 1.5" wider. (Sleeve)
Posted: 4:52 pm on January 13th

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