Burda kids Pea Coat 9487
I made a jacket for DGD from Burda kids pattern 9487 (a peacoat with gathers at the back yoke). DGD looks adorable in it but it is uncomfortable under the arms. I want to put gussets under the arms to get the seams out of the way and give her a little more flexibility. Could someone give me a link to instructions somewhere or even a video or even your own instructions and opinions. The problem is that the sleeve seam bothers her. Because I have used 3 layers of fabric as one for the whole jacket (poly satin,wool,poly lining), the seam is thick and hard. I tried trimming the wool out to the seam and have weakened the sleeve seam.I do not have enough fabric left to recut the sleeves. The sleeves are a bit narrow so I have taken out the stitches to mid forearm and will resew them with a 3/8inch seam instead of 5/8 inch. giving her a little more room. I will do the jacket side seam the same to match the sleeve seam. I do not know how large to calculate the size of the gusset and how to join it to the sleeve seam. I thought about hand appliqueing the gusset in place so the seam would be flat .
If I made this jacket again I would choose a size larger. And maybe still add gussets for freedom of movement. This is a size 12 and is the largest pattern available. It needed an underarm sleeve seam 1/2 to 1 inch wider from the armscye to the wrist and and the jacket side seam widened the same amount. I will post Photos of DGD in it when completed.