Burda kids Pea Coat 9487 - Threads


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Burda kids Pea Coat 9487

not quiet finished, need advice
Need to add an underarm gusset.
photo taken with web cam by Belinda
Back of jacket with yoke.  Since the pattern was not a consistant matchable pattern I offset it with the piping in the yoke to make the mismatch a little less obvious and to make the contrasting  collar blend better.
burda pattern 9487
Problem area, the sleeve seam is too firm because of the 3 layers of fabric sewn as 1.  I need to add a gusset here.  DGD says it is not comfortable.  I need advice on sewing in the gusset and deciding how large to make it. 
The three fabrics that I used sewing it as one fabric.
not quiet finished, need advice
Need to add an underarm gusset.
photo taken with web cam by Belinda

not quiet finished, need advice

Need to add an underarm gusset.

photo taken with web cam by Belinda

I made a jacket for DGD from Burda kids pattern 9487 (a peacoat with gathers at the back yoke). DGD looks adorable in it but it is uncomfortable under the arms. I want to put gussets under the arms to get the seams out of the way and give her a little more flexibility. Could someone give me a link to instructions somewhere or even a video or even your own instructions and opinions. The problem is that the sleeve seam bothers her. Because I have used 3 layers of fabric as one for the whole jacket (poly satin,wool,poly lining), the seam is thick and hard. I tried trimming the wool out to the seam and have weakened the sleeve seam.I do not have enough fabric left to recut the sleeves. The sleeves are a bit narrow so I have taken out the stitches to mid forearm and will resew them with a 3/8inch seam instead of 5/8 inch. giving her a little more room. I will do the jacket side seam the same to match the sleeve seam. I do not know how large to calculate the size of the gusset and how to join it to the sleeve seam. I thought about hand appliqueing the gusset in place so the seam would be flat .

If I made this jacket again I would choose a size larger. And maybe still add gussets for freedom of movement. This is a size 12 and is the largest pattern available. It needed an underarm  sleeve seam 1/2 to 1 inch wider from the armscye to the wrist and and the jacket side seam widened the same amount. I will post Photos of DGD in it when completed. 

 

Belinda

Grandma C

Comments (1)

Grandma C Grandma C writes: If I could post more pictures I would show my progress with this alteration I need to do. I am adding 1.5 inches to the circumfrrence of the armscye and upper sleeve with a 6"x3" diamond spreading the underarm sleefe and jacket seam 1.5" wider. (Sleeve)
Posted: 4:52 pm on January 13th

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