More Fortuny! Yes, More!
Last summer I got a call from a customer who was at the Palazzo Fortuny. She wanted to know how much fabric she should buy for a tailored jacket. So, I told her, and she bought this fabric.
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Here's a shot of the fabric with my shears laid on, so you can judge the scale.
Generally, Fortuny prints use only one color. This print is different, being blue and silver-a new combination from their studios.
Cutting this fabric presents a small challenge, though. The fabric itself is a cotton twill, which is somewhat lightweight. I've decided to interline it with a blue twill of similar weight. My customer doesn't want a jacket that is too constructed, but not like a shirt either.
|As you can see in this photo, when tearing the fabric to get the grain, the printing is off grain. There is a judgment call to make here--cut on grain, or cut on pattern.
Since the paints Fortuny uses in the printing process are thick, they tend to "lock" the grain of the fabric, so I've decided to cut on pattern. This will mean the fabric is a little off-grain, but with the printing being an all-over pattern, this won't present a problem.
|All the markings are on the interlining, and I've decided to baste in the seam allowances. The metallic paints tend to show pinholes slightly, so I don't want to mar the fabric with basting outside the seam lines.
You can see stitching lines marked in tracing carbon, and thread basting to hold the layers together.
This is an overall pattern, so matching across the hem will cause everything else to read properly. This is a horizontal line and if the pattern reads smoothly along the hem, the inevitable mismatching above, won't feel like a mistake.
I started by matching the center backs, and basting the interlinings to the two pieces.
I've used the carbon paper to transfer this point to the back.
You can see the mark pointed out by the arrow.
|After determining this point, I use a ruler across the pattern, to determine the horizontal line that aligns with the hem.|
|With the tracing carbon, I also mark the horizontal on the fabric back.|
|I place the interlining onto the back of the fabric, aligning the side seam and horizontal hem lines. Then, I thread baste these pieces in place.|
|Here are the sleeves, after cutting and matching. When matching a pattern on a sleeve, I choose a point on the bodice, midway between the shoulder and underarm. Measure up from the underarm on the sleeve to get a corresponding point. That point on the bodice is where I'll match the pattern to the sleeve.|
|After the sleeves are cut and sewn together, press all the seams, and catch stitch the seam allowances to the interlining.|
|After the sleeves are stitched, I take the sleeve shapers, and my new steam iron, to shape the sleeves.
More to come on this jacket in future post!
UPDATE: See how the facing for the jacket was handled.
Posted on Jan 28th, 2013 in sewing, garment construction, how-to, fabric, sleeve, fortuny, fortuny-jacket