While investigating the construction of a fine-quality shirt with a stand collar, David Page Coffin developed collar-making procedures that will enable the home sewer to approach the results achieved by the elaborate machinery of the manufacturer. Stand collars, like the ones above, are most often found in men's dress shirts, but they are also used on women's shirts. A stand collar has a stand area, or collar band, separate from the collar area. The stand gives the collar its height. A fine-quality shirt has certain hallmarks. The collar is shaped so it curves around the neck without puckering. The edge seams are hidden under the edge of the collar, which rolls naturally at the roll line. The two collar points are exactly the same shape and length.
His objectives were to build shape or curve into the collar and its stand, to increase the accuracy of the sewing in order to ensure a perfectly symmetrical and precisely sized collar, and to keep seam bulk to a minimum. These concerns grew out of the unsatisfactory results he got when he followed pattern instructions or general sewing texts. After explaining the general techniques, he'll incorporate them into step-by-step instructions for making a stand collar.
Find out more with his article from Threads #4.