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The Canvas Coatfront: How to Structure Jackets

Threads magazine - 165 - Feb./Mar. 2013

A canvas coat front foundation supports a beautiful, sculptured jacket silhouette. If the shoulder pad outlines show through a jacket’s right side, the front is wrinkled and pulls up at the bustline, or the pockets sag, these are all signs that a garment lacks core structure, and a canvas coat front is the perfect solution.

A canvas coat front is a familiar concept to tailors. It is a carefully cut and shaped canvas piece, shaped with a felt chest section and pad stitching. It sculpts a garment from shoulder to chest and into the lapels. It is this canvas framework that ensures a menswear coat holds its shape for life. It restrains the fabric, preventing it from stretching and wrinkling, and supports the garment, so that it keeps its shape even without a body inside. In this article from Threads issue #165, Pamela Powell will show you how to plan, cut, and sew a canvas coat front for a ladies jacket. Tailoring is about cut, fit, and construction. It takes figure variations into account, along with personal taste and, of course, fashion trends. A custom-made canvas coat front provides an accurate fit and lasting style.

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