How to Make Bias Pants
These bias pants from Threads #166 are quick to make, have novel seaming, are to some extent self-fitting, and are comfortable to wear.
University of North Carolina, Greensboro, associate professor Melanie Carrico launched her venture into making bias pants the year Threads challenged members of the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals (ASDP) to design a no-waste garment. The instructions that follow focus on making the pants without pockets, but you can add them if you desire. These are nothing like sewing regular pants, and they won’t replace your favorite pants pattern, but if you’re looking for a fun, new, and easy way to get the benefits of bias in a pair of pants, you’ll love this approach. Make a muslin first to get the hang of how these go together. Then grab a drapey fabric from your stash and give this pattern a go.
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Have made a pair of one-seam pants in black silk dupioni and really like them but now I want to do the same with patterned fabric, perhaps sand-washed rayon?
I tried to make this pattern when I first got issue 166 but couldn't work through the process. Although I am not as tall and slim as the model I suspect something is wrong with my understanding of how to get the measurements for the tube. What is meant by the "base thigh measurement" Is this around one thigh, or both and at which point on the thigh? Also where to take the hip measurement as the curve of one's buttocks surely affect the tube circumference? I really would like to make these bias pants as suffering from IBS with bloating I'm sure they would be more comfortable for my very variable waist measurement.
For the base thigh measurement, follow the equation on p. 51. Start by taking measurements: Measure the fullest part of your thigh (wherever that happens to be), and the fullest hip circumference. Then use the directions to calculate the "adjusted thigh measurement," and choose it or the full thigh for the remaining rectangle formulas.
Carol Fresia, Threads Senior Technical Editor