How to Trim a Neckline Like Yves Saint Laurent - Threads

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How to Trim a Neckline Like Yves Saint Laurent

This detail on a chiffon blouse borrows from YSLs Russian collection. The neck edge is finished with a very narrow (3⁄16-inch) silk charmeuse bias binding, a narrow metallic braid is sewn to the binding, and a tie is added.
This detail on a chiffon blouse borrows from YSLs Russian collection. The neck edge is finished with a very narrow (3⁄16-inch) silk charmeuse bias binding, a narrow metallic braid is sewn to the binding, and a tie is added.

This detail on a chiffon blouse borrows from YSL's Russian collection. The neck edge is finished with a very narrow (3⁄16-inch) silk charmeuse bias binding, a narrow metallic braid is sewn to the binding, and a tie is added.

Photo: Claire Shaeffer

Couture expert Claire Shaeffer shows you how to trim a neckline using a technique from Yves Saint Laurent in this excerpt from "Homage to Yves Saint Laurent" Designer Techniques Vol. 1.

  This detail on a chiffon blouse is from YSL's Russian collection. The neck edge is finished with a narrow (3⁄16-inch) silk charmeuse bias binding, a narrow metallic braid is sewn to the binding, and a tie is added.

To begin, cut a bias strip about 1-1⁄4 inch wide and as long as the neckline circumference. Press the strip, stretching the bias slightly. Trim the seam allowance from the neck edge on the seamline. To avoid stretching the neck edge, baste it to a duplicate paper pattern.

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Comments (8)

Jill_Lessing Jill_Lessing writes: I like it.
Posted: 1:07 pm on April 22nd

mabowles mabowles writes: It seems this blouse would still be a very popular style. Do you have a photo of the whole blouse?
Posted: 5:38 pm on April 15th

psfws1963 psfws1963 writes: very gorgeous blouse you have there. The info on how to trim a neckline will come in handy for me I'm sure.
Posted: 4:53 pm on April 15th

psfws1963 psfws1963 writes: very gorgeous blouse you have there. The info on how to trim a neckline will come in handy for me I'm sure.
Posted: 4:53 pm on April 15th

gailete gailete writes: Pardon me, I meant it would be trimmed to 1/8" after stitching it to the seam and then the seam allowance of the blouse and the binding are trimmed to 1/8".

This technique does not have the binding folded in half as would be usual.
Posted: 4:00 pm on April 15th

gailete gailete writes: If you follow the steps, the whole width of the bias is used to start with, no pre-folding in half. She is stitching the flat bias piece to the seam area, and trimming it down to the 1/4" above the seam line and you still have the rest of the bias that will eventually be wrapped up and over the cording and the seam. At one point she says to trim it if needed so you are using the least amount of fabric as possible so that it is a very delicate binding.
Posted: 3:57 pm on April 15th

user-2417912 user-2417912 writes: Actually, @Tammy19, I think that would be correct, because you fold it in two,lengthwise, stitch, and the fold over & either stitch in the ditch or by hand. I'm pretty sure that's how it goes.
Posted: 3:48 pm on April 15th

Tammy19 Tammy19 writes: This is a very interesting technique. However, I'm pretty sure that step 1 should have a 1/4" seam allowance, not a "1-1⁄4-inch seam allowance".
Posted: 3:16 pm on April 15th

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