Facebook Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram Tiktok Icon YouTube Icon Headphones Icon Favorite Navigation Search Icon Forum Search Icon Main Search Icon Close Icon Video Play Icon Indicator Arrow Icon Close Icon Hamburger/Search Icon Plus Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon
Insider

Sign in or become an insider to access this story

Sign In

The Hybrid Lapel Facing

I purchased this Yves Saint Laurent jacket recently and, when inspecting it, found a really nice detail. 

This Yves Saint Laurent jacket is deceptively simple, but it was constructed with a sophisticated trick. I purchased this jacket recently and discovered it has a really nice detail. 

hybrid lapel

I call this trick a hybrid lapel facing: The upper half of the lapel facing, above the break is a separate piece, while the lower half of the lapel, below the break, is a cut-on facing.

hybrid lapel

The interior view reveals the horizontal seam that cuts across the facing.

hybrid lapel

This close-up shows the portion of the facing at the break.

You see a nearly right-angled seam where the seam pivots from the lapel edge, across the facing. For clarity, this break is marked X.

This hybrid lapel facing method works for both shawl and notch lapels. My example below will show a shawl lapel.

Why would you want to draft and make a lapel facing this way? I was taught to eliminate seams whenever possible, and this is a case where I should apply that lesson. We need the seam around the collar portion of the lapel, but not below the break. Having a fold below the break eliminates the seam, reducing the thickness of the front edge of the jacket.

Eliminating thickness along the front edge is especially useful when working with heavy coat fabrics, such as wool Melton or boiled wool. A seam creates a thick, stiff edge. A fold, instead, makes for a flat, sleek, and fluid edge at the coat front.

hybrid lapel

See the finished muslin sample for clarity.

Note the shape of the facing at the hem of this sample. This method works only when the hem forms a right angle at the coat’s opening.

hybrid lapel

Below the break, the edge of the jacket is a folded edge.

Patternmaking: 

This method works for either notch lapels or shawl…

Start your 14-day FREE trial to access this story.

Start your FREE trial today and get instant access to this article plus access to all Threads Insider content.

Start Your Free Trial
Discuss

Threads Insider

Get instant access to hundreds of videos, tutorials, projects, and more.

Start Your Free Trial

Already an Insider? Log in

Discuss

  1. aussiesewinglady | | #1

    A great method when using a contrasting fabric for the lapel. Would also make sewing buttonholes easier on a thicker fabric. Thank you - can't wait to try in on my next jacket.

  2. User avater
    kennethdking | | #2

    Glad you enjoy the post!

  3. user-1112581 | | #3

    Well-illustrated, I didn't understand until I saw you cutting the pattern tissue!

  4. andreala | | #4

    This will be so great on a plaid, which is my next project. Thank you for the perfect timing!

Log in or become a member to post a comment.

More From Threads

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |

Threads Insider Exclusives

View All
View All

Highlights

Shop the Store

View All
View More