Lining a jacket makes it last longer and become easier to slip on and off. Best yet, using the bagging method is as quick or quicker than finishing an unlined jacket.
Photo: Sloan Howard.
|Stitch opening closed
Make invisible stitches by starting a stitch directly across from previous stitch, push needle along inside of crease, emerge same side, stitch across. Pull up stitches.
Prepare to bag
All jackets benefit from having a lining; it lets the jacket slide easily over other clothes, drape correctly on the body, and stand up to wear and tear. Any jacket pattern, whether it includes a lining or not, can be used to make a bagged lining.
If you're using a pattern without a lining, it's easy to make a lining pattern. Keep in mind that the bagging process won't work without a back neck facing, which is also a cinch to make a pattern for, as shown in the same drawings. And if you're one of those people who always needs to shorten or lengthen a jacket's sleeves or body, alter your pattern before cutting it out, because it's easier to work with a pattern that has the correct hem and sleeve lengths.
The bagging procedure begins only after the jacket and lining have been constructed, but there are a few details to attend to before construction. The first step is to serge-finish the seam allowances of both the jacket and lining hems, side seams, sleeve hems, underarm seams, and the jacket's front facings. Aligning raw edges is much easier to do when they're serge-finished, and results in more accurate stitching lines. You won't see these seam allowances after the jacket is lined, but you'll know they're not raveling during wear (which many fabrics tend to do). I don't serge the neck edges or armscyes, as they're mostly cut on the bias and don't ravel.
Since the jacket's seam allowances will be pressed open, don't serge any two seam allowances together, as you might be tempted to do, for example, on the center-back seam. If you don't have a serger, don't zigzag the edges, as this stitch tends to make the fabric fray more rather than less. Instead, cut cleanly and sew as accurately as possible.
Now, construct the jacket, including setting in the sleeves and collar, following the pattern instructions up to hemming and inserting the lining. Attach the sleeve heads and shoulder pads, too. And check to see that the hem of the jacket is even and the sleeve lengths are correct.
The next step is to create a temporary hem on the jacket. Hand-baste both the entire jacket hem and the sleeve hems 1/4 in. up from the hem's fold and lightly steam-press the folds. This step will save you time and hassle when sewing the hem in place later on. And, as you'll see, the hem crease will serve as a stitching guide.
Leave an opening in one lining seam
Complete the lining, including setting in the sleeves. Lining seams can be serged together in a single pass on the machine, except for one side seam that needs to have an opening through which you'll turn the jacket right side out later. If your jacket pattern has an underarm side panel, make the opening in the seam that connects the panel to the back. This designated seam needs to be sewn conventionally, so that the seam allowances can be pressed open. The creases of these seam allowances will serve to guide the little bit of hand-sewing at the end of the project.
After sewing and pressing all the lining seams, sew the jacket facing to the lining, as per the pattern's instructions, but leave unsewn the bottom 3 in. of the facing hems.
|Making a lining pattern
|Use jacket's pattern pieces to make lining pattern. On front, trace pattern, omitting jacket facing area, and add seam allowance (s.a.) to front edge. On back omit facing, trace pattern, adding 1 in. at center back for ease pleat. On sleeve, trace pattern as is. For all three lining pattern pieces, subtract 1 in. from hems.