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Machine Embroidery: A Marriage of Fabric and Design

comments (1) November 1st, 2008 in tools & supplies, embroidery

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Threads Magazine, editor

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Small designs scattered over a garment can maximize the embroidered effect. These shapes are from the Dot Font design card by Cactus Punch.

Small designs scattered over a garment can maximize the embroidered effect. These shapes are from the Dot Font design card by Cactus Punch.

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Are your fabric and design compatible?

For a successful marriage of fabric and design, consider carefully the fabric's characteristics, its intended use, and the details of the design. Ask yourself the following questions, and always make test samples:

Will the design's stitch density change the hand of the fabric? If so, is this a problem for your project?

How will the fabric's color, weight, and texture influence the design?

Can you get better results by using a backing or topping?

Will the fabric and design work together if you simply change thread colors?

Can you alter the design to make it work, or is choosing a different design the best alternative?

Stabilizing the fabric: backings and toppings

For stitching out a design, you need to hoop wovens and knits smoothly, with neutral tension, and no stretching. Velvet is an exception (I'll discuss it in a moment). Lycra knits with four-way stretch, however, need to be stretched in the hoop (and backed with a cutaway stabilizer) in the same direction and amount they'll stretch on the body when worn. Otherwise, the garment will not stretch on the body, causing undo stress on the design and fabric.


Different fabrics require different preparation. For Lycra knits, choose a design with a lot of open space. To hoop, stretch the knit as it's worn on the body (left). The design will appear puckered when the fabric is relaxed (middle) but will stretch over the body when worn (right). Photos: Mary Ray.