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To Get the Right Armhole, Fit the Bodice

Fitting an armhole requires fitting the bust dart, shoulders, and side seams.

Same measurements on very different figures

Fitting an armhole requires fitting the bust dart, shoulders, and side seams.

Once the changes are made to your pattern, it may look substantially different from the original—especially in the front armhole. On a large bust, the armhole might now have an "L" shape. We're accustomed to seeing a long gradual curve on commercial patterns, but that isn't the shape many of us need.

Concentrating on the stitching lines, add new tissue to your pattern where it's needed. Pin in the new darts and walk the corresponding seams as described in How to walk and true a seam.


	Clip to the stay-stitching around the armhole to enable armhole fit assessment.

After the seamlines have been corrected and trued, draw and cut the new seam allowance while the darts are folded so the correct dart legs automatically form.

Now make your second muslin. This time staystitch the armhole seams. The armhole is much higher now and you'll probably need to clip the curves to the staystitching for a comfortable fitting. The new armhole curve should not be tight but should just skim the body.

The second muslin will most likely require few dramatic changes. Follow the same steps as before, this time fine-tuning the fit and the position of the seamlines.

Sarah Veblen teaches, designs, and sews from her studio in Sparks, Maryland.

Drawings, except where noted: Deb Bassino

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Threads Magazine, editor
Posted on Nov 2nd, 2008 in garment construction, fitting

Comments (4)

CvilleLiz writes: "The correct bust dart also keeps the armhole from gaping."
" pinching out a dart in the armscye to eliminate the gape and then moving the dart to a better location later is a good approach."

My shirt gapes above the full bust. Pinching out an extra dart there at the armscythe would close the gap, but I imagine it would like strange. Is that "done"? Advice?

Thanks in advance!
Posted: 7:55 pm on August 14th

rwito writes: hi rose
i am working on the bunka sloper.would you like to discuss it ?
Posted: 9:04 pm on October 26th

jcorte writes: I know that his works for the armhole, but my problem is with a jacket that fits too tightly to raise my arm and write on the blackboard. Any suggestions? Adding to the center back does not help and makes the jacket look sloppy.
Posted: 7:35 pm on August 28th

RoseM writes: I know this is the way to fit the "standard" armhole. Has anyone designed an armhole pattern for the Bunka model? It is more "lifelike" in my opinion. http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/japanese_dress_forms/
Perhaps this (the Bunka form) could be a future Threads article???
RoseM
Posted: 6:55 am on December 3rd

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