The Merits of a Basic Fitting Pattern
Where's the bust point?
As you reshape your sloper, you don't need to make any effort to align your bust point with the "ideal" one. Ignoring how it will temporarily move as you contract or expand the sloper, simply leave the point where it is on your sloper— this reflects your figure, so why change it? To adapt the carefully fitted dart control on your sloper to the new pattern, be sure the sloper's control is oriented in the same directions as in the pattern (i.e., the darts are in about the same places), leaving each dart's angle and starting point as you've fitted them on the sloper.
Among the important questions your sloper has already answered, after all, is how much dart control you need and where it should point. Now you're simply adapting the pattern to reflect this information, and all that's required at this stage is to correct the differences in length and width that a bust variance between sloper and pattern represents. As you can see in the examples above, matching slopers even ensures that the front and back side seams match after you've adjusted overall lengths, without requiring a single measurement or dart adjustment. Sound too simple? Give it a try!
Karen Howland gives detailed sloper-drafting directions in her book Cut to the Fit (888-683-2032, to order).
Photo: Sloan Howard; drawings: Karen Meyer