The Merits of a Basic Fitting Pattern - Threads


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The Merits of a Basic Fitting Pattern

Slopers help simplify the fitting process.
Slopers help simplify the fitting process.

Slopers help simplify the fitting process.


Where's the bust point?
As you reshape your sloper, you don't need to make any effort to align your bust point with the "ideal" one. Ignoring how it will temporarily move as you contract or expand the sloper, simply leave the point where it is on your sloper— this reflects your figure, so why change it? To adapt the carefully fitted dart control on your sloper to the new pattern, be sure the sloper's control is oriented in the same directions as in the pattern (i.e., the darts are in about the same places), leaving each dart's angle and starting point as you've fitted them on the sloper.

Among the important questions your sloper has already answered, after all, is how much dart control you need and where it should point. Now you're simply adapting the pattern to reflect this information, and all that's required at this stage is to correct the differences in length and width that a bust variance between sloper and pattern represents. As you can see in the examples above, matching slopers even ensures that the front and back side seams match after you've adjusted overall lengths, without requiring a single measurement or dart adjustment. Sound too simple? Give it a try!

Karen Howland gives detailed sloper-drafting directions in her book Cut to the Fit (888-683-2032, to order).

Photo: Sloan Howard; drawings: Karen Meyer

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Comments (6)

tzipi tzipi writes: This is one of the most excellent articles I have ever read. I knew the concept of using a sloper but never knew how to do it. Excellent. Thank you
Posted: 9:22 pm on October 1st

KathySews KathySews writes: This is interesting and needed. I have been shown how to make a sloper but never how to use it. I do agree with Seraphim, I did not follow the part where the sloper was being manipulated. I need a video of someone adjusting a pattern to her sloper.
Posted: 9:59 am on April 20th

hvnlyhost hvnlyhost writes: I love all of the people that know more than I do about sewing and pattern making, you truly help to stretch me even further in the sewing field. Loving it...THANKS BUNCHES!!

Posted: 12:51 pm on November 7th

Seraphim Seraphim writes: I found this article very helpful. My daughter sews a lot of custom work and she measured and created a sloper for me. I was on my own to figure how to use it to fit other patterns.
I did get confused by the middle section when I was seeing the sloper being manipulated to fit the pattern, it didn't seem to make sense.

Posted: 12:07 pm on January 28th

prodileida prodileida writes: hola gracias por este espacio tan bello donde podemos ayudarnos necesito hacer un vestido imperio de novia y quiero ver algunos patrones gracias

Posted: 11:13 am on November 20th

celticstitcher celticstitcher writes: thanks for this, its really helpful, and just what I was looking for
Posted: 4:54 am on July 19th

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