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How to Draft a Two-Piece Jacket Sleeve From a One-Piece Pattern


Converting symmetrical sleeves

1. Trace the pattern without seam allowances, transferring all markings. Cut the pattern on the stitching lines. converting symmetrical sleeves 1 

2. On the tracing, measure 2 inches in at the end of the front armsyce seam, and 3-1⁄2 inches to 4 inches from the back seam. Draw vertical lines parallel to the grain from the armscye to the hem. Some patterns are so narrow at the hem that the vertical lines hit the side seams before reaching the hem. If only one line hits a side seam, don't do anything. If both lines hit, add tissue so you can redraw the side seams wide enough for the vertical lines to reach the hem. Cut the tracing apart on these lines; tape the end pieces--which become the undersleeve--together on the original seamline, matching notches.

 converting symmetrical sleeves 2
3. On the oversleeve, measure 3⁄4 inch in at the elbow in front, and 3 inches in at the hem in back. Connect the armscye to the hem through these points, using a curved ruler. Drop the back seam 5⁄8 inch for ease if desired.  converting symmetrical sleeves 3
4. On the undersleeve, drop new grainlines from the armscye seam ends to the hemline. Measure out from the front hem 1 inch to 1-1⁄2 inches and in from the back hem 2 inches. Connect the new points to the armsyce, using a curved ruler. Correct the hem width if necessary.  converting symmetrical sleeves 4

5. Add seam and hem allowances to all edges. Draft cut-on facings for vents.

converting symmetrical sleeves 5   converting symmetrical sleeves 6


Will you try this technique? Share your thoughts by leaving a comment.

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Comments (3)

maguertae maguertae writes: Make sure you notch the new pieces that will go together so you don't end up putting the wring pieces together.
Posted: 12:26 pm on January 14th

user-3359049 user-3359049 writes: Thanks for sharing. I've done this so many times WITHOUT the specifics. So now, there will be no need for guesswork.
Posted: 10:03 pm on November 18th

user-5370693 user-5370693 writes:

Thank for sharing.

This is a technique I am definitely going to try. I will post the end results once I tried it on a garment.
Posted: 2:34 pm on November 8th

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