Meet Designer Brook DeLorme
February 3rd, 2009 in design, online extrasUPDATE:
Since this article orginally ran in a 2003 issue of Threads, Brook DeLorme has continued her growth as a fashion designer and sewer. Her current website showcases her unique take on design, very unlike many traditional methods.
Brook's interpretation of fashion design, both in 2003 and at present, is inspiring to sewers of all levels, causing the viewer to think outside of how they traditionally interpret fashion. At the time of original publication, Brook oftentimes left edges unfinished and interior details showing from the outside, providing a unique look that isn't always represented by traditional magazines. Although that may not be everyone's aestheic (and not even the way Brook sews today), seeing such a creative and raw interpretation of fashion design is always important--especially when trying to inspire a new sewer.
To see more of what Brook has been up to lately, take a look at her current collection here. She also posted a response on her personal blog, which you can read here.
Meet Designer Brook DeLorme
by Jennifer Sauer
an Online Extra to Threads #107
Brook DeLorme, a 23-year-old designer from Portland, Maine, is making a name for herself outside traditional fashion circles with garments that are unique in concept, form, and execution.
Each one of Brook's handmade garments is inspired by, and embodies, a philosophical thought, which is outlined on the garment's hand-lettered label. Brook's raw, deconstructed aesthetic includes unusual combinations of recycled or bargain fabrics, with edges and seams that are left exposed, frayed, and purposely messy (see Brook's Garments).
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Brook's large, sunny studio is conveniently located near the Maine College of Art, where she takes sculpture and philosophy classes. Everything in her studio, including tables and shelves, is portable and can be rearranged at a moment's notice, depending on her design needs for any given day. |
But perhaps the most interesting part of a Brook DeLorme garment is the way it's created. As Brook works, each garment seems to take on a life of its own. She sculpts her clothing using a creative process that pushes design and sewing conventions aside and embraces the freedom of "decide as you go." This allows her to change style, shape, silhouette, and detail at any point during construction.
Besides designing a collection of one-of-a-kind garments each season, Brook also takes the time to photograph all her pieces and uses the images to compose artful brochures. She uses the brochures to promote her clothing, but more important, as inspiration for future garments.
Brook's Garments
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| Mobius dress Asymmetric tucks and bold colors |
Floral shirt Topstitched lines left free at the raw hem. |
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| Denim jacket Mix-and-match binding and snap-tape closure |
White dress Hand-lettered hem detail and pink fabric accents |
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| Laced top, pink skirt Twisted straps and center-front lacing |
Orange dress Two different garment halves |
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| Green top and skirt Dyed map print and pocket dropped off the shirt hem |
Blue top, purple print skirt Unusual fabric combination and uneven sleeves |
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| Patchwork dress Patchwork fabrics with raw edges |
Tie-dye tank, blue skirt Uneven tucks and hems |
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| Pink coat Offset pockets and pieced fabric |
Pink jacket and skirt Dangling bias binding and asymmetrical closure |
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| White jacket An interior message |
Map skirt, white top Off-the-shoulder sleeves and exposed seams |
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| Hand lettering Hand-painted fabric |
Garment label Hand-lettered labels |
See more of Brook's work on her website.
To read more about Brook's design method, see the June/July 2003 issue of Threads (#107).
Jennifer Sauer is an associate editor of Threads.
Photo this page: Jennifer Sauer; slideshow photos: Brook DeLorme






























Comments (43)
If you haven't checked out her current 2009 work, and are only looking at the 2003 article, you're missing out! http://brookthere.com/ She offers a version of the much-admired Mobious dress, even. And for the people who say they want to be inspired by technique, consider the "Tangled" dress! :)
Everything in Brook's portfolio won't appeal to everyone, but I appreciate designs that encourage me to think beyond the picture on the pattern envelope. I'm not the most creative person, so I need a few "funky" design inspirations to give me a push in a new direction.
Posted: 1:35 pm on March 15th
I love the Tangled dress. It reminds me of the coat with the woven strips in a recent issues of Threads, as well as of the work by Chado Ralph Rucci.
Neat stuff. Posted: 7:37 pm on March 1st
As an advanced sewer, I look at Ms. DeLorme's work and say, "Hmm, that's interesting," but it doesn't TEACH me anything or inspire me to greater sewing heights. And that's what I have always received from Threads articles. I understood as a beginning sewer when I subscribed in 1985, that I'd have to "work up to" Threads techniques. I didn't expect Threads to start at the bottom with me - that's what the Vogue Sewing Book and Singer Sewing books are for! I appreciated having challenges to meet. Advanced construction techniques and couture elements have MADE Threads what it is. They are the "gestalt" of the magazine. They push us forward, instead of simply showing us someone's work or simple techniques. Now, maybe Ms. DeLorme's contemporaries DO feel inspired by her work to try new things. That would be terrific. But for me, her work doesn't give me anything I expect from a Threads article.
I also want to be clear that I don't think it's merely an age issue. I had the great good fortune to meet Ms. Enid Wilson at the Sew Expo in Puyallup, WA yesterday - she's the hugely creative young sewer who made the incredible blue woven-tail tailcoat featured in Threads and here online some months ago. Her evident skill and meticulous attention to detail and creative talents have inspired me to look at patterns differently and to tweak them for greater personal expression. Now THAT's a satisfying Threads experience!
By the way, the huge packed-to-the-rafters runway shows of pattern designs at Sew Expo (Simplicity Project Runway, Sandra Betzina & Marcy Tilton etc.) are evidence that there are still a LOT of folks who sew clothes (as opposed to quilting and home dec). They (and I) need good tangible instruction, advice and inspiration about making those patterns. While I wish Brooke DeLorme well, I hope Threads remains the source (the one and only source) for advanced sewing inspiration. Posted: 9:28 pm on February 28th
Yes, I am taken back by the apparent lack of construction skills exhibited in the article, but I admire how Brook plunged right in, creating without the okey-dokey of the sewing world! After viewing her web site, I see that she has already come a long way, and is selling clothes for others to wear.
I teach sewing, and I judge sewing. Yes I use conventional standards to judge, that's what's expected in state fair competition.
However, the measure of how much joy a soul derives from creation is usually found well beyond a perfectly turned seam. My job as a teacher is to pass on valuable skills, but in no way does that entitle me to prevent the exploration of trends I don't deem valuable.
Just a few days ago, while sifting through my disorganized pile of sewing information and notes, I came across color photo-copies of two little scrap-dolls sewn together by a a 6 or 7 year old child during free sewing time at summer sewing-camp. I am still overwhelmed by her use of color, form, and ragged bits of left-over fabric to make such beautiful, compelling objects.
Yes, I strongly believe that clothes should both fit well and hold together well. I don't think I'd like to wear a loosely-constructed garment that looked as if it were about to fall off my body. But, I always enjoy getting a glimpse inside of someone else's creative process. Posted: 1:10 pm on February 13th
The excitement generated by sewers expressing different points of view is thrilling and has always been delivered with great enthusiasm. As an editor, I can promise you we read your posts online as well as the many letters that come to us other ways. And, if anyone is keeping score—both for the original article and the current posted version, the tally of pros and cons is tied.
I was part of the team that advocated including Brooke’s story in Threads six years ago. She wrote to us and sent photographs with samples of her work. (I encourage all of you to make it a personal goal to send a proposal for an article to Threads—you never know what might happen. See Author Guidelines under “Magazine” in the red band above.) Brooke’s proposal was full of ideas, charm, youth, and sunshine. Her garment labels, her ingenuity, her sewn letterhead inspired us. We kept coming back to her package because it made us feel good—maybe not in its traditional perfection, but in its total freedom.
It’s great to see Brooke’s growth—maybe not on the pages of Threads but in this lively and opinionated (and free) electronic medium, where we can all participate in redefining the sewing community. Threads isn’t dictating what’s right or wrong here, we’re laying a topic on the table for discussion. In another six years I hope we take another look at Brooke.
In the spirit of supporting anyone who sews I want to thank those of you who uphold good form in constructive comments. In a few days these posts will disappear under more recent opinions, but I hope the passion of this discussion continues. If we all agree, how can we grow?
Judy Neukam Posted: 5:10 pm on February 12th
I think my dog "scratching and moving his blanket before laying down creates a finer design). It is an insult to our intelligence, and yes, if that trend continues I will cancel my subscription. Personally I feel the publication went down the drain compare to the way it was years ag ( and I was a subscriber from day 1). Even the amount of pageshas been reduced. Posted: 4:02 pm on February 12th
Design is an expression of ones insight and passion, that is then created into a product.
I admire Brooks work and find it very creative...She clearly has the knowledge and know-how of pattern cutting and the understanding of the human form. She uses creative techniques that add dynamic and imagination, i find it lovely...
And bare in mind:
“In order to be irreplaceable one must always be different.”
Coco Chanel Posted: 9:27 pm on February 11th
Posted: 8:56 pm on February 10th
Someone mentioned YSL was anti-fashion but, if you have been to the exhibition of his clothing at the San Francisco De Young Museum, you would see how perfect and meticulous his work was.
Even the Project Runway participants are graded down for sloppy finishing but now anti finishing and deconstruction is supposed to pass for fashion. Obviously Brook has color and design talent but I can guarantee we'll never see her clothing at the DeYoung.
Posted: 7:49 pm on February 10th
I also think she needs a lot of training from the look of the construction.
I would like to know who ´discovered´ her and thought she merited a good magazine as Threads? Posted: 7:46 pm on February 10th
I'm surprised that Threads has chosen to showcase work such as this. And I am not pleased that via my subscription, I've had to pay to see it! Anyone can produce "clothing" such as this, without the need for skills other than being able to thread a needle. I adore wearable art, but this is simply thoughtless and unfinished. "...each garment seems to take on a life of its own.", indeed! Right on, Jennifer. Considering "bensoni's" comment, if Brook has evolved into things more palatable, we should have been shown that instead of a beginner's efforts,
To stereoette, EVERYONE's comments have a proper place here. That's what these forums are for! Although, it seems you're not condemning that fact as much as they don't agree with you. We're all entitled to our opinions, and be that as it may, Brook must hear ALL reviews of her work; the positive AND critical. That's why she's gone public with her work.
I hope Threads editors read these discussions. They need to know that the majority of their subscribers DO NOT consider this kind of work inspiring. I realize you have to test the waters to remain vital, so please hear us: We don't like paying to see this kind of "workmanship." We seek knowledge in how to IMPROVE and EXPAND our skills. Please editors, do just that--EDIT!
Thanks, editors, for listening to us! Posted: 4:46 pm on February 10th
not professional at all
and if threads is going to have articles like this i will not be renewing my subscription,they just don't do the magazine justice.very very bad taste
iram62 Posted: 1:35 pm on February 10th
I started designing and sewing handbags and jackets 14 years ago (I am now 74 years old and I am still at it). My designs are often inspired by what's current and trendy but first and foremost I value good workmanship and wearability.
Posted: 12:48 pm on February 10th
I was shopping the other day at Macy's and saw a blouse I really liked, but the ruffle collar was unfinished. I would have bought it if not for that. To me it looked tacky. Maybe that's the trend and I'm and old frump.
I can't even say I would like the mobius dress. I have a feeling that it wouldn't look so great in a front view with the model just standing straight up.
Posted: 11:37 am on February 10th
Posted: 11:25 am on February 10th
You have to think about the target market for your designs. My younger clients would love these looks, and even some of my 30-40 year-olds would like designs like the Mobius dress and the tie-dye tank and blue skirt. I've seen these construction techniques in some of the stores that target the 20-somethings. However, my older ladies would not like any of these designs, and, most of my clients of all ages come to me looking for more polished and tailored design pieces.
Threads, please keep showcasing a wide range of designers and styles. After all, if we all did the same thing, what's the point in doing it at all? Posted: 11:07 am on February 10th
Honestly I can't speak for all women, but I took to sewing my own clothes because everywhere I looked I'd see clothes that looked dumpy (t-shirt and jeans), frumpy (the horribly over-sized fashions which does not hide a plus size shape, it accentuates it and makes them look boxy instead), or the new asymmetrical designs, which to me looks just like a shirt that's been buttoned on the wrong button and they didn't realize it yet.
If you like those fashions, that's fine. But for me I'd love to see more feminine designs. More blouses made of lace, more embroidery that isn't just a quick slapped on trim. I'd love to see something bold like the return of the bustle petticoat only as a skirt instead of underskirt for a change. Or retro that goes farther back than the 1940's.
Just my two cents. Posted: 10:36 am on February 10th
A person can either master the skills necessary to support good design or they can put them aside altogether and embrace the antithesis as an art form. It takes time and effort to learn to sew well and to integrate masterful craftsmanship as part of beautiful design. Ignoring those steps and blatantly, boldly disregarding any recognizable standard does produce a garment which will "attract" some attention. It makes a bold statement and I suppose that makes it literally attractive. It's very easy to thumb ones nose at convention and then tilt that nose up in the air. Personally, I think it takes more than that for something to have merit. Posted: 10:18 am on February 10th