Textures: From Photo to Fabric
Bamboo
This bamboo wall (below) was naturally stained. In response, I wet silk noil and hung it barely touching silk dye in a tray. The ends of the silk picked up the dye, which crept up the fabric. I then made tubes of the fabric (bottom left inset). When I dyed some natural-colored linen in the same way, the dye didn’t blend as well, so I brushed on a little dye on each linen strip to suggest a transition from one color to another.
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Next I tried strip piecing: I cut a few metallic sheers and sewed them to dark cotton strips (top inset). The joints are simply horizontal pleats.
Turning to the shape of the bamboo, I made two faced strips in the shapes of a bamboo stalk, leaving a gap for the joint (right inset). I left the top of the lower strip partially unstitched to the background fabric to form the opening of a patch pocket.
Sculpture with round hole
In a beautiful sculpture park, I noted a stone piece with carved calligraphy and a round hole that revealed layers when observed from an angle. My first response was fairly realistic. I mimicked the layered holes by facing a hole and several curves each with a contrasting fabric to define their edges. Then I layered them beneath the hole and created a calligraphic strip with a strip of printed fabric (left inset).
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In future experiments, I plan to play with the calligraphy by making up my own alphabet or characters and silk-screening, stenciling, or drawing them on fabric.
Lois Ericson writes and designs in Salem, Oregon. For more about her Design and Sew patterns ($12 ppd.), contact her at Box 5222, Salem, OR 97304 or at her Web site (designandsew.com).
Photos: author; inset fabric photos: David Page Coffin
Posted on Jan 16th, 2009 in sewing, design, fabric























Comments (2)
Posted: 11:39 pm on March 17th
1. Wet your fabric and squeeze out excess water.
2. Mix about 1 tablespoon transparent fabric paint with 1 T water.
3. Apply mixture to fabric with foam brush. You can apply more than one color at a time -- colors will blend and change.
4. Before fabric dries, quickly press down leaves, flowers, sticks, pebbles onto fabric. I press down on back of leaves and flowers with foam brush to make sure there is good contact between items and fabric. For leaves, press ribbed side down.
5. Leave out in full sun to dry. Once dry, remove leaves & flowers. Heat set fabric according to manufacturer's directions.
6. At this point, your fabric is ready for further embellishment with more fabric paint or thread. Metallics (Lumiere metallic fabric paint by Jacquard is a great choice) are a wonderful addition.
7. Sunprinting is NOT an activity for a windy day. Also, wear gloves!
Here's a sunprint I created using mimosa leaves and flowers. Mimosa flowers are extremely delicate and fluffy, but they worked beautifully and even their pollen sunprinted nicely.
http://ny-image3.etsy.com/il_75x75.52730691.jpg
I'm happy to answer any questions about sunprinting users may have: sljack@jacksonfabricarts.com
Sarah Jackson
Posted: 10:51 am on January 21st
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