I used Simplicity 2645 Threads pattern to make what is currently my favorite jacket!  This pattern has separate front pattern pieces for B, C and D cup, which I really appreciate.  

Fabric:

100% linen in a cross-dye (I hope that’s the right term) of blue and taupe.  I washed and dried the fabric twice before cutting.

I used a sew-in interfacing.

Alterations: 

Even with the D cup front, I needed a full bust adjustment (much easier when you’re STARTING with a D cup, though, instead of B).  I used Sandra Betzina’s method for princess seams.

Also, I widened the sleeves using Nancy Zeiman’s pivot method.  

Design changes: 

The peplum wraps from side front to side back.  I altered it slightly by spreading the pattern piece in a wedge shape at what would be the side seam (photo 3).  Had I not seen the line drawings of the pattern, I don’t think I would have even noticed that it had the side peplums, so I wanted to emphasize it just a little bit more.   

I also did LOTS of topstitching (photos 2 and 4 above), using the triple-stitch on my Viking sewing machine.  (The needle moves forward two, back one; forward two, back one; forward two, back one; such that each “stitch” has three layers of thread.)  I used a pale blue thread for the topstitching.  I wanted to highlight the flattering lines of the jacket.

I added a center back seam (photo 4), as I think three vertical lines (center back and two side darts) are more pleasing to the eye than just two side darts.

Conclusion:

I love the fit of this jacket, as well as the fact that you can wear the collar up (photo 1), down (photo 5) or halfway in between, with one side up and the other folded down.   I think this would be beautiful made in a wool crepe with silk lining.  This particular jacket is unlined, though, for summer.

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