I used Vogue 2862, Donna Karan Collection, to make this jacket and Vogue 2490 (now out of print) to make the pants.   

Fabric and Notions:

• 100% linen jacquard in bleached white (not as white as optic white). 
• For the underlining on the pants and the partial lining on the jacket, I used 100% cotton batiste.  I washed and dried all fabric twice before cutting. 
• I used a sew-in interfacing. 
• My buttons are a frosted glass with a hematite border and crystal center. 
• The D-rings have crystals on them, as well.

Alterations, Jacket: 

• I did a 2-inch full bust adjustment, which required altering six pattern pieces comprising the front. 
• I shortened the sleeves 2 inches and widened them at the bicep approximately 1-1/4″.
• Since the pattern description says the jacket is “fitted,” I was afraid it would be TOO fitted, so I went up a size through the body, but then ended up sewing the added width back out.  I would not call this a “fitted” jacket, but who am I to argue with Donna Karan?   

Alterations, Pants:

• I made a “wide-beam adjustment” by splitting the back pattern piece vertically and creating a wedge to add width, then taking that width back out at the waistline by adding an additional back dart.
• I lengthened the legs by 3-1/2 inches, which is a lot more than is customary for me.  (This pants pattern must run short.)
• I also lengthened the back crotch by about an inch by adding a horizontal wedge at center back, tapering to nothing at the side seam.

Design Changes, Jacket: 

I stayed very close to the jacket, as drafted.  This particular pattern has 19 pieces and 91 construction steps.  I had to reference the instructions every step of the way if for no other reason than order of construction. 

• One thing I did change was, instead of using ribbons to gather the pockets and collar, I encased a narrow elastic in the top of the pocket pocket and the collar band to draw them in. I didn’t want ribbons dangling down.
• Also, I made the belting on the sleeves slightly wider than called for by sewing a narrower seam, as I wanted the belting to fill the entire width of the 1-1/2 inch D-rings.
• The pattern called for triangular decorative stitching on the collar, which I left off.  It seemed somehow more utilitarian with that stitching, which didn’t particularly appeal to me.  I contemplated doing the stitching in a metallic silver thread, but decided less was more.

Design Changes, Pants: 

• I added front welt pockets.
• In order to reduce show-through and also to help combat wrinkling and stretching of the linen, I underlined the pants in cotton batiste.
• I changed the front pleat to two darts and added a slightly more exaggerated flare to the leg.

Conclusion: 

I expect I’ll wear the two pieces separately more often than together, but it is nice to have a suit.  The jacket construction was detailed and time consuming (slotted seams, gathered pockets, belted sleeves, tabbed shoulders, shaped seaming, and that collar alone took me an entire evening).  It is trendy, without being too faddish, and yet the white linen moves it into the “classic” category, such that I can wear it for years to come.  The pants will be a summertime favorite, with the flowing (and airy) legs and cool batiste lining.  I enjoyed working on this project.

 

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