I recently purchased this linen after taking “the little black dress” class with Susan Khalje. I wanted to include the techniques I learned in her class. I learned how to install a hand picked lapped zipper and the proper way to do underlining, among other things. The underlining is carefully cut on grain for each piece and hand basted to the wrong side of the fashion fabric around the edge on the seam line. At this point your fashion fabric and underlining become one. After each seam is sewn together, the basting stitches are removed. The underlining will help keep the linen from getting too wrinkled during wear. It also gives the fabric more body. The zipper was put in by hand using a picked stitch. You get amazing control and the zipper looks really nice and is just as durable as if sewn by machine. As you can see the zipper is completly hidden and the stitches are barely visible.
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This is so lovely! Linen has got to be one the most gratifying textiles to work with. Your close-ups are great--wish there was another close-up of the zipper's RS to better show your handpicking (even though its 'barely visible'). Thanks for your explanation about underlining and its benefit for use with linen. I appreciate you sharing this with us.
Very nice work. I like handpicking zippers also.
This is absolutely beautiful. The pattern, the fabric, the colors and your work come together to make something really special and it looks very comfortable, too. I appreciated the description, because I never thought about underlining linen. Wrinkling makes me avoid linen, although it is wonderful to work with. The idea of underlining to give it some body & avoid wrinkling is wonderful and I am going to try it. I live in Florida and notice, more than ever, that I feel cooler in natural fabrics, so I have been following all of the linen discussion and photos. This dress just blew me away.