A Satin Stitch Adds Elegant Detail to Quilts and Garments
August 31st, 2009 in sewing, embellishments, embroidery, quilting
Mary Ray, contributor
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Satin stitching adds texture to patchwork.
Photo: Mary Ray
Satin stitching has always been my favorite decorative machine stitch. I first used it years ago for machine appliqué, but I’ve found it to be a great way to emphasize seams and add some stitched detail as well. A satin stitch is simply a zigzag stitch that’s sewn with a very short stitch length. The result almost looks like binding – especially when you turn your stitch width dial to the max. And most of today’s fantastic new machines have at least a 5mm-width stitch and some take it all the way up to 9mm.
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Fabric motifs can be easily appliquéd in place with a satin stitch. |
Satin Stitching Tips
Even the most basic techniques require a little know-how, so here are some tips to ensure success and achieve a beautiful satin stitch:
1. Adjust the stitch length so that there’s barely any space between stitches. That will cover the edges of a fabric – if you’re doing appliqué – and give a solid, defined stitch if you’re embellishing the surface of a garment or quilt.
2. Use a presser foot that has a groove on the bottom to accommodate the chunky stitch.
If there’s no room for your nice tight satin stitch to glide under the presser foot, it can bunch up and pretty soon you’ll have a big knot between the foot and the fabric and under the throat plate as well.
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A grooved presser foot glides over the stitching and prevents bunching. |
3. Adjust the tension so the top thread pulls slightly under the fabric to give that nice rounded look. This means you’ll need to loosen the top tension or tighten the bobbin tension. How you do this depends on your machine, of course. I sew on a Bernina and the bobbin case has a hole at the end of the hook. Feeding the bobbin thread through this hole when satin stitching and making buttonholes results in a fully rounded stitch.
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The Bernina bobbin case has an additional guide hole that tightens the tension for a rounded satin stitch. |
4. Place some lightweight tear-away stabilizer under the work to avoid puckering and tunneling. Keep the stabilizer in place only while stitching, then gently pull it away so you don’t have any unnecessary bulk in your garment.
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Tear-away stabilizer prevents headaches. |
5. Use some great thread, which is not hard to find nowadays. The choice of thread – both color and type – is important depending on whether you want to create a strong outline or just add a little definition. Be careful not to use thread that’s too thick because it will jam up under the foot if the stitch is too tight. It’s always a good idea to make some samples. Rayon and polyester embroidery threads are great because they add sheen and depth to a project. Variegated and blendable threads create a color-blocking effect that almost looks like piping.
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Variegated or blendable thread makes a satin stitch almost look like piping. |
Corners, Curves, and Shapes:
When you use a satin stitch to define an area or to appliqué, you’re bound to run into a corner or two. Here are two ways to make a neat turn:
1. Stitch the side stopping at the corner with the needle down on the outside edge. Raise the presser foot, pivot 90 degrees, and stitch the next side.
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For a sharp corner, cover the side with the next. |
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Stop at the outside corner with the needle down. |
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Turn 90 degrees and resume stitching the adjoining side. |
2. For a more rounded corner, stop stitching a few stitches before the corner with the needle down on the outside edge. Raise the presser foot and pivot to a 45 degree angle slowly make a couple of stitches. With needle down on the outside edge, pivot again slightly, make a couple of stitches and continue around the corner to finish the next side.
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A tightly rounded corner is another option. |
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For a slightly rounded corner, stop stitching slightly before the turn and gradually pivot around the bend. |
Curves may require some pivoting, too, to keep them smooth and gentle. Follow the same procedure by stopping along the outer edge with the needle down, lifting the foot, and pivoting ever so slightly.
When you want to add some embroidery by creating shapes and squiggles, simply turn the stitch width dial down gradually as you sew until it reaches zero.
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I covered the piecing seams of this jacket with satin stitching before I machine quilted it. The thread color matches or blends with each fabric to define the “strata.” Satin stitching randomly fans out from the collar to embellish the jacket. |
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Strips of satin stitching add detail to the under collar of the jacket. |
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Turn the width dial down as you stitch and turn the fabric slightly to create embroidery. |
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Comments (10)
Thanks for your tip. Can you post a photo of this? It would be great to see it.
Mary Posted: 9:07 pm on October 20th
When near the corner, stop before you reach the end of the corner. The place where you must stop is the measurement that is the width of the original satin stitch. (That is, measure the width of the satin stich and that becomes the length from the corner where you must stop.)
At that point, slowly begin to narrow the width of the satin stich until you reach the narrowest stitch right at the end of the corner. The end of the stitching tapers to a point.
Turn the item 90 degrees. Start the satin stitch, but this time begin with the narrowest stitch and gradually increase the satin stich width until the empty space starting at the point fills in. You don't want the mitering stitches to exceed the empty space. Try it on some scraps and it becomes quite easy. The mitered corner looks like the frame of a picture on the wall, very nice. Pam Posted: 1:06 pm on October 8th
I got so excited when i saw this topic the ideas are endless.
I was thinking of the little peter pan collar on my granddaughter's dress the pockets on my linen dress i haven't made yet for summer in aust.
Also on the end of a crisp linen blouse sleeve cuff.
Will put this in to my sewing file, so i do not have to search in future.
Also thank you for this months magazine, i know some people just like the couture` sewing but the 5 basic things we should know is such a good section to have in the magazine please keep this up as i pass these magazines on to my daughter ( she has to have them back in a week)!!!mm and now she is thinking of getting her own subscription.
We have to give the young one s a reason to keep sewing. Posted: 5:53 pm on September 7th
Poppysquash2 Posted: 2:49 pm on September 7th