This shot shows a lot actually, the double lapels, the metaliic stitching joining the two colors, the buttons, the handworked buttonholes, the center front where it closes and the top of the zipper.
This jacket , based on Vogue 2925 is made with two slightly different tones of violet and is embellished with subtle metallic embroidery and brass buttons. It closes in the front with an almost hidden zipper. It is lined with soft cotton dyed to match.
The main changes I made to the pattern were to add a second lapel and a wide shaped cuff that flares out into a bell shape.
I used two soft, washed, salvaged linen dresses for the fabric. I wanted a clear color and then another that was a warmer, slightly browner version so that it would tie in with my coloring and with the brass buttons I intended to use. It started out as a cooler( bluer) version of violet so I dyed it with yellow, the opposite color on the color wheel, and got a nice subdued, slightly warmer tone that I was happy with.
I chose to use metallic embroidery to help tie the color of the buttons in with the garment. I found that it also softened the edges where two colors meet and turned them into a more intentional design element.
The embroidery was done in decorative stitches that come on the Babylock Ellegante II. It was first stitched in metallic gold thread and then stitched over with olive rayon thread. My aim was to have a similar color and design as that of the buttons.
I chose cotton lining to give it a cozy, informal quality. I used a very soft, old cotton print which is dyed so that the backround color matches the jacket.
I was unable to find thread that matched perfectly, a small issue until it was time for the buttonholes. It wasn’t close enough… so I bought embroidery floss and made a version of a hand worked buttonhole on the lapels. This was a first for me … probably a last too!
Last of all was to close the front of the jacket. The large brass hooks and eyes that I ever-so-carefully sewed in place on the inside looked lumpy, bumpy and lousy when I put it on. So I carefully took out every tiny stitch, explored my few options and resorted to a zipper. I put it in with three rows of hand stitching from the back so that there are no stitches showing on the front of the jacket and covered the zipper tape with fabric matching the fabric it lies upon.
So, in the end, I have a jacket which looks a little stiffer than I actually prefer. I like the soft, natural lived in look of washed linen and my hope is that with wearing and washing it comes to life. In my opinion linen that’s lived in and loved is like fabric with a soul.
This is a great project - you worked hard over every detail, and imagined great embellishments! I also enjoy overdying fabric although I have made many an error. :-)
"In my opinion linen that's lived in and loved is like fabric with a soul. "
I agree. I like this sewing challenge because I am seeing just how many wonderful things can be created from linen!
Good job - I love your ability to think outside the box!
I really like the double collar!
WOW
Oh my goodness,,, Look at that collar! I just love your detailing.
I don't have pictures here of my costumes but my daughter put some up on Flicker under the Jestersmother name. Wish I could contact you and ask questions about construction. I think you can write them right on the flicker site. I will ask her to help me put some of them here but maybe you could give me some pointers.
I have a Swallow tail coat that is driving me nuts with the back seam. I had to make it from Ultra Swede(sp)Too thick!
I just want to run screaming from the house sometimes.
Absolutely gorgeous! I love the layered collar, the embroidery, two colors of fabric, the buttons on the collars, the total design. I can't say enough about this wonderful jacket. I'm especially impressed by the sleeve cap. Your sewing is impeccable.
stunning, I really like what you've done!