My first experience with the true power of draping was making a "living history" dress to wear while demonstrating bobbin lacemaking. I had researched patterns and styles and techniques but never really found anything in the available patterns that was "just right." So, one day I decided to approach the dress as if I was actually a dressmaker from that period. Between my duct tape dress form and a bolt of muslin I created a dress (sans pattern) that was pinned, basted and cut right on the form in a design I completely dreamed up as I went. I cut and sewed it in a simple calico and it fit perfectly. It was incredibly flattering because I was able to make style decisions based on my own proportions and body landmarks, not some arbitrary industry standard. At the event many people came up to me to ask where I got my dress, and I was able to say proudly that I invented it myself and it was not from a pattern.

My favorite was also not among these. I loved the Calvin Klein dress that Gwyneth Paltrow wore. I have no problem with the decolletage on the dresses... after all a Versace is a Versace and not something you'd put on the Queen Mum. However, I think Jennifer Hudson was a bit optimistic. Now what I'd like to see is a series of Threads articles revealing the construction secrets!!!

My favorite tip regards easing sleeves. I don't run a gathering stitch across the sleeve cap. Instead I ease the sleeve (by hand) directly into the armscye, sewing "over my finger." Since the sharper you bend the fabric the longer the top layer becomes, I find that I can control the ease better than trying to make a gathering stitch look neat by pinning... and then I can try the garment on just as it will look coming out of the machine. If I'm uncertain about the outcome, I use four separate threads: one for each quadrant of the sleeve. That way I can pull out a thread without disturbing the other parts of the seam. Hand basting doesn't take all that long and it sure is easier to remove. Another advantage to this method is that you can reverse the bend to slightly ease the bodice underarm, adding better shape and stability.

Three things I would like to see:

A few examples of specific suggested fabrics. For example, if an article recommends "lightweight fabric" I wish it would go on to say "such as..."

More advice on using sergers and specialty attachments. Most articles are written solely from the least common denominator standpoint, never getting past straight stitch and zigzag. Not that every article should be exotic, but lots of us do own these things and it's a shame not to include them just be cause "everybody" doesn't have one.

More peeks into couture workrooms, especially addressing the current trends from the Fashion Week shows. Now that web sites like style.com exist it would be nice to have someone "on the inside" reporting back to the home sewers who are online drooling over the latest from Chanel, Armani, Galliano, et al and trying to figure out how it's done.

I have several challenges, but the overarching one is going up sizes in patterns that don't include my size. My current method is to grade the pattern by figuring out how many sizes larger the pattern would have to be if it did come in my size, then I use the multi-size lines to redraw the pattern. After I have it graded up to an estimation of my correct size, I apply my usual alterations. Then I make a muslin from the result and fine tune. It takes a while but I can fit any pattern no matter the size (and I know if the style will work before I cut my fashion fabric.) Once I have it perfected I transfer my drawings to permanent pattern material (I like the gridded Pelon) and make my garments with confidence. One tip is to fit a view that uses the smallest amount of fabric and has the least detail. Then use the alterations from the easier, cheaper view to redraw the one you want to sew.

My favorite fitting books are Nancy's "Pattern Fitting with Confidence" and the old Singer series "The Perfect Fit."

KewpieDoll: You can get individual copies of Threads at lots of places: Jo-Ann's, Borders, Barnes and Noble, Hancocks...

Mondo was robbed.

Anyone besides me think that little stunt was a rather juvenile attempt on the part of Kors to poke Karl Lagerfeld in the eye, so to speak? Obviously he and Garcia are not pleased at having to eat fashion forward crow over the diaper issue. Upon mulling over all the possibilities, that scenario seems the most likely IMHO.

I started sewing at about age three when my grandmother taught me to sew doll clothes on her old black iron electric Singer. It had a knee bar that controlled the speed. She also taught me hand sewing and embroidery. As I remember, the first thing I ever sewed for myself was a red a-line skirt when I was about 10. I remember sewing lots of clothes for myself as a youngster and I loved wearing them. Even that first red skirt was worn out by the time it got too small for me to wear anymore. I made my own dress for the prom and baby clothes for my son as a young mom. I don't think I've ever stopped sewing for any length of time over the last 50+ yrs.